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    new style SP14 chassis

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    tubes4hifi
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    new style SP14 chassis

    Post by tubes4hifi on Sat Apr 13, 2013 10:26 pm

    due to the problems with my normal chassis supplier,
    I've come up with the following alternative, in which the tubes will stick up thru the top plate about 1".
    It's a different look, some will like it, some won't.
    It's a solid oak chassis with aluminum top plate and a rear I-O plate. Size is 17x10x3" height
    The 3rd photo was one sent by a customer using an all aluminum chassis with wood side plates, with the tubes fully above the top.
    My version will have all the transformers INSIDE under the top cover.
    Hope to have more of the regular original style in about 5-6 weeks. This is available now.
    Feel free to make comments . . . .






    Zimmer64

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    Re: new style SP14 chassis

    Post by Zimmer64 on Sun Apr 14, 2013 12:42 am

    I like the wooden base and I just orderd a SP14 kit :-)

    Michael

    Pillo69

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    Join date : 2012-04-11
    Location : Granada (España)

    Re: new style SP14 chassis

    Post by Pillo69 on Sun Apr 14, 2013 11:01 am

    Roy, that design can create a before and after in line peamplificadores SP.

    TorontoDave

    Posts : 24
    Join date : 2013-03-18

    Re: new style SP14 chassis

    Post by TorontoDave on Sun Apr 14, 2013 11:14 am

    Too funny - I ordered a SP14 - and this was the case I was looking at for it.

    The other case I was considering was on Ebay sized 13x11x4.7. I was waiting till I had the parts before I did a dry run on part placement before I pulled the trigger on the enclosure - but this definitely helps. Any chance you could put the PDF's up for download - or include a real size template out with the order? Either way - really looking forward to putting mine together Smile

    David

    tubes4hifi
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    Re: new style SP14 chassis

    Post by tubes4hifi on Sun Apr 14, 2013 1:25 pm

    David,
    I shipped your kit yesterday, so you'll be the first, then Michael in Switzerland, then Patrick in Africa (I'm building his along with a similar SP9 octal to go with it).

    tubes4hifi
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    Re: new style SP14 chassis

    Post by tubes4hifi on Tue Apr 23, 2013 8:59 pm

    here's a couple more preview photos of the real thing! ALMOST done but not completely!











    TorontoDave

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    Join date : 2013-03-18

    Re: new style SP14 chassis

    Post by TorontoDave on Wed Apr 24, 2013 10:28 am

    tubes4hifi wrote:here's a couple more preview photos of the real thing! ALMOST done but not completely!











    Very NICE! I was looking at ordering the generic version of this enclosure - but I like the silk screening and pre-cuts. Do you sell this chassis "pre-cut" or perhaps just the metal bits? I haven't ordered my enclosure yet - so have some flexibility.

    David

    tubes4hifi
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    Re: new style SP14 chassis

    Post by tubes4hifi on Wed Apr 24, 2013 5:36 pm

    of course the rear panel of the wood needs to be drilled for all the RCA jacks and AC input and fuse, etc.
    That took me about an hour to do with various drill bits 5/8" and 7/8"
    You can source the chassis yourself if you want. The top and rear panels run about $160 from FrontPanelExpress
    if you want to source them yourself. Anything I sell is marked up about 20% for my time and efforts.

    pjp3

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    Location : Pelham, AL

    Re: new style SP14 chassis

    Post by pjp3 on Wed Apr 24, 2013 6:26 pm

    Nice

    Maintarget

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    Re: new style SP14 chassis

    Post by Maintarget on Wed Apr 24, 2013 7:47 pm

    I do like the combination of wood and aluminum however I would personally stuff the caps and heat sinks if possible on the bottom of the board and mount the board on stand offs to have more tube stick out the top and the benefits of more air flow across the tubes, might be a good cheap option to offer with the kit.
    Still working on the ST 120 probably speakers next then Preamp.

    TorontoDave

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    Join date : 2013-03-18

    Re: new style SP14 chassis

    Post by TorontoDave on Thu Apr 25, 2013 9:24 am

    tubes4hifi wrote:of course the rear panel of the wood needs to be drilled for all the RCA jacks and AC input and fuse, etc.
    That took me about an hour to do with various drill bits 5/8" and 7/8"
    You can source the chassis yourself if you want. The top and rear panels run about $160 from FrontPanelExpress
    if you want to source them yourself. Anything I sell is marked up about 20% for my time and efforts.

    Understood - I wasn't sure if you were actively stocking it or not - if its a custom effort - I'll gladly do it - if its stocked - I'll pay the premium (I'm ok with either).

    Looking at your layout - it seems the RCA jacks will be a bit of a challenge. You can either cut or drill out the wood around the jacks (to allow mounting to your metal back plate directly), or use jumper wires to wire up the jacks leads (which are in the drilled hole - don't stick out).

    Thanks Roy, I should be back from this business trip next week - so will start my build then. Really looking forward to it.

    David

    baddog1946

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    Re: new style SP14 chassis

    Post by baddog1946 on Thu Apr 25, 2013 3:04 pm

    I agree with Maintarget on raising the tubes on stand off's a bit more. The current position of the plate just below the tube tops is the hottest area and the proximity of the aluminium plate acting as a heat sink at that level could be a possible overheating the tube glass problem.
    I thought of this on one of my custom ST-120's and for tube longevity sake I set the board on stand offs just low enough to hide the bases and kept that all glass look which I love.

    Toronto Dave you mentioned silk screening from FPE. All my plates from them are etched and painted. I didn't know they did silk screening.
    I did buy a plate from another company that was cheaper and they did silk screening but I went back to FPE as overall their plates looked a bit better.

    tubes4hifi
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    Re: new style SP14 chassis

    Post by tubes4hifi on Thu Apr 25, 2013 4:10 pm

    easy to either use longer standoffs on the bottom of the PCB, or mount all components on bottom side and suspend the PCB from the top with 1/2 or 3/4" spacers, just need to add 9 more holes to the top plate, plus two large holes for the regulator heatsinks, can't mount those upside down!!
    The customer photo with red transformers was done that way.
    FrontPanelExpress does engraving and color-infill, not silk-screening. Most places that do silk-screening have a $100+ setup charge, it's for doing lots of identical parts.

    gener8r

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    Re: new style SP14 chassis

    Post by gener8r on Thu Apr 25, 2013 10:56 pm

    I post this in the spirit of trying to help via my experience, not as contradictory. Roy, you should know I think the world of you.

    This new(er) chassis is a nice alternative to the solid aluminum ones. Of course you know I prefer wood. The good news is heatsinks can in fact be mounted on the bottom side of the board. I'll post this again for reference:

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/59541088@N08/8606072618/in/photostream

    I use cut-off pieces of plastic wire ties underneath each heat sink as "spacers" when soldering them to the board. This raises the heatsink off the board about 1/8 of an inch, eliminating the chance of them coming into contact with a ground plane or other traces, and it also provides a bit more air circulation for coolong. Remove plastic pieces when done soldering.

    The only other thing one has to do is make sure the 1084/1085 Volt Reg. IC is properly oriented as it will now be mounted on the opposite side of the heatsink it would normally be mounted on. Although now offset, the pins are long enoungh to bend back under the heatsink and into the holes on the board, bringing them back into proper orientation.

    Done this twice now with no heat issues or any long term detremental effects noted. My cases are well ventilated though. The only thing I have mounted on the PCB's top side are the jumper wires and the tube sockets. For spacers between the board and chassis I use grommets. They provide both the offset and vibration dampening. A drop of crazy glue keeps them in place.

    If you countersink 3/4 inch holes on the front panel about 5/16" deep (I use fostner bits as they cut flush) you could easily move the controls from the top to the front. Of course the controls must have shafts long enough to go through 1/2" of wood and still have enough length to mount a knob on. Not a problem with elma (goldpoint) switches.


    gener8r

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    Re: new style SP14 chassis

    Post by gener8r on Fri Apr 26, 2013 5:48 pm

    I should have also added I went up to a 2" tall heatsink.


    mantha3

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    Re: new style SP14 chassis

    Post by mantha3 on Sat Apr 27, 2013 8:07 am

    I love it

    Did you ever figure out a way to squeeze a remote control volume in?

    tubes4hifi
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    Re: new style SP14 chassis

    Post by tubes4hifi on Sat Apr 27, 2013 1:51 pm

    remote control volumes are usually just a motorized volume control, tons of them for sale on ebay if you want one
    or you can go with the $400 variety of electronic ones

    Zimmer64

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    Re: new style SP14 chassis

    Post by Zimmer64 on Sun Apr 28, 2013 1:40 am

    Stumled accross a volume control recently: http://lampizator.eu/shop/viewitem.php?productid=64
    Price is ein Euro though. At the current exchange rate this would be a pricey but neat upgrade.

    Michael

    tubes4hifi
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    Re: new style SP14 chassis

    Post by tubes4hifi on Sun Apr 28, 2013 2:43 am

    for a true stepped attenuator with remote, the best deal I've seen is the Goldpoint BSA1 from BentAudio, $175.
    For the ultimate remote system, I built this a year ago and am willing to sell it . . . cost was over $600.
    It's just a 64 step volume control and 8 input/output relay modules, all controlled by remote, programmable.
    No active amplification, I hadn't gotten to that part of it yet.
    Was going to add a class A JFET preamp and regulated power supply.
    This COULD be the front end of any tube preamp!





    tubes4hifi
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    twin brother SP9 octal

    Post by tubes4hifi on Mon May 06, 2013 10:03 pm

    here's a couple new photos of the twin brother of the SP14 on the first page of this thread,
    these are of an SP9 octal preamp for the same customer:





    TorontoDave

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    Re: new style SP14 chassis

    Post by TorontoDave on Tue May 14, 2013 9:43 am

    I've just received part-one of my order (the base case with stock top plate).

    These Hammond Walnut cases are gorgeous! I was originally going to stain and seal the wood, but it comes "pre-oiled" and nicely finished - would seem a crime to refinish something so polished!

    I've mounted the transformers and sound deadening material - just waiting for my custom top-plate and back plate from Front Panel Express (thanks for your help Roy!) to finish it off.

    The parts I'm waiting on:
    - Custom Top Plate (Front Panel Express)
    - Custom Back Plate (Front Panel Express)
    - Russian PIO K40-Y Capacitors (EBay - Russia)
    - 1 Amp Slo Blow Fuse (Ebay - Hong Kong)

    The parts I've assembled:
    1) 3/4" Inch Round Power Button (TheSource)
    2) Walnut Sided Hammond Case (Parts Connextion)
    3) Vibration Killing Padding with Adhesive (Parts Connextion)
    4) 2 Large Polished Aluminum heavy CNC'd Knobs for Main Volume and Input Selection (Parts Connextion) - 40% off!!
    5) 2 Smaller Polished Aluminum CNC'd Knobs for left/right Balance (Parts Connextion) - 40% off!
    6) 1 1/4 x 1/4" Fuse Holder (The Source)

    The rest is stock SP14 from Roy.

    I should have everything I need no later than Saturday next week, can't wait!

    David

    WntrMute2

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    Re: new style SP14 chassis

    Post by WntrMute2 on Tue Nov 05, 2013 8:13 pm

    TorontoDave wrote:I've just received part-one of my order (the base case with stock top plate).

    These Hammond Walnut cases are gorgeous! I was originally going to stain and seal the wood, but it comes "pre-oiled" and nicely finished - would seem a crime to refinish something so polished!

    I've mounted the transformers and sound deadening material - just waiting for my custom top-plate and back plate from Front Panel Express  (thanks for your help Roy!) to finish it off.

    The parts I'm waiting on:
    - Custom Top Plate (Front Panel Express)
    - Custom Back Plate (Front Panel Express)
    - Russian PIO K40-Y Capacitors (EBay - Russia)
    - 1 Amp Slo Blow Fuse (Ebay - Hong Kong)

    The parts I've assembled:
    1) 3/4" Inch Round Power Button (TheSource)
    2) Walnut Sided Hammond Case (Parts Connextion)
    3) Vibration Killing Padding with Adhesive (Parts Connextion)
    4) 2 Large Polished Aluminum heavy CNC'd Knobs for Main Volume and Input Selection (Parts Connextion) - 40% off!!
    5) 2 Smaller Polished Aluminum CNC'd Knobs for left/right Balance (Parts Connextion) - 40% off!
    6) 1 1/4 x 1/4" Fuse Holder (The Source)

    The rest is stock SP14 from Roy.

    I should have everything I need no later than Saturday next week, can't wait!

    David
    Well, how did it come out?  Any pictures of your build or the finished product.  Did you do the layout for the top plate and the back plate or was that something you had a file for? I'm trying to put together my thoughts on one of these.  I'd like the tubes to protrude most or all of the way out, the heat sinks to also come up through cutouts.  Also, I'd like a metal chassis rather than the wood one.  I wonder if just adding some octal socket savers would bring the tube up to my liking.

    DrZ123

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    Join date : 2014-01-03

    Re: new style SP14 chassis

    Post by DrZ123 on Fri Feb 14, 2014 4:09 pm

    Would love to see some pics of custom SP-14's or PH-16's

    gener8r

    Posts : 56
    Join date : 2012-04-28

    Re: new style SP14 chassis

    Post by gener8r on Sat Feb 15, 2014 4:28 pm

    @DrZ123

    Here's aPH16.
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/59541088@N08/9348262880/lightbox/

    Here's a SP14.
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/59541088@N08/8606079038/

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