Starting at the BS I'm just a little unclear as to the role of the 47k resistor in series with the inputs to the switch would appears to be shorted out in one position (which position I'm not sure).
Question 1 -- do I want that 47k resistor in series or not? ** I currently do NOT have this in there
Question 2 -- if I have no interest in the blend effect (do not want the "stereo effect to be progressively eliminated") would I discard the 560k/270k (or 68k/33x if you're a 3X man) completely? ** I currently do NOT have these in the circuit at all
Question 3 -- to remove the balance correctly, I would still want to have the resistance of the control in the center position, so I would want to put approximately 375k in series (is a standard 330k close enough) with the input, and then another 375k to ground? ** Currently do NOT have these in
Question 4 -- to eliminate the filter switch, I had read a suggestion in another forum to simply bypass the 18 resistor between the tube sections and leave eyelet 15 completely open. Yay, nay? ** Currently have it this way
For bass/treble I do effectively have what PeterCapo posted here, with the exception of the 1.0uf cap (my build was based on the PAS3) after the feedback loop.
So here's the bottom line... if I use it all as-is, the output is very hot and distorted, and the volume control is super sensitive -- too much gain here, simply. Now, if I say, skip the PC5 completely and take the output of the PC6 phono stage (eyelets 1 and 7) through a 100k volume pot to my amp (a Maggie 8601/EL84 SEP) it sounds really nice -- good dynamics on the volume, clear and warm sound BUT it is a thin on the bottom end. Obviously I've got a pretty wide impedance mismatch here, but it's over my head to try to figure out how to resolve that. I can hear that the low end is thin by swapping it with a NAD solid state clinically-flat-response phono stage and it has more solid low end (and boring everything else).
I suppose my larger question is... do I actually *need* the PC5 at all, or what use does it serve me other than to compensate for the losses in all of the various control circuits? As in, by "fixing" all of the controls in their dead center positions, would I just be creating a net-zero gain between it and the tubes? Think there's anything that could be done to match the PC6's output directly to my amp?
Or am I just talking crazy talk?