Remote control of AC power

I have my ST-70 sitting across the room, and would like to control the AC power with a remote. Thought about "The Clapper", but something like this seems to fit the bill. Just wondering what others are using to control AC power on their rigs?

http://www.amazon.com/Woods-32555-Outdoor-Control-Converter/dp/B001Q9EFUK/ref=pd_cp_e_0

Mike

mazeeff wrote:I have my ST-70 sitting across the room, and would like to control the AC power with a remote. Thought about "The Clapper", but something like this seems to fit the bill. Just wondering what others are using to control AC power on their rigs?

http://www.amazon.com/Woods-32555-Outdoor-Control-Converter/dp/B001Q9EFUK/ref=pd_cp_e_0

Mike

I control via a built-in SSR that is energized from the preamp.

In the works is a FM-1 that will be used as PSU , a cathode follower ( or rather 2 pairs),
a motor-driven volume pot, and arduino and a IR receiver for a handheld remote.
When finished i can power on/off the stereo ( both vta-70 and preamp will have their SSR) and control the volume with the remote.
Not bad for a modded 1960 device :-)

How decadent ...   

One thing you need to remember - tube equipment really really hates short power cycles, so whatever you go with, you'll want to leave a couple minutes between hitting the button. Don't expect to be using it as a mute.

If you don't want to go all high tech, you could just cut one side of the cord, splice in another line in a "T" configuration, run that around to the seating position, and add a switch at the end to complete the circuit. Probably not a bad idea to include a fuse in the new line.

Lots of options for switches ... for example.

http://www.amazon.com/White-GW320-Bedroom-Switch-Indicator/dp/B00ARBQK06

You can wire any of them as either line through or just wire an internal terminator for an end of line installation.

Speaking of which ...

End of line ...

peterh wrote:I control via a built-in SSR that is energized from the preamp.

In the works is a FM-1 that will be used as PSU , a cathode follower ( or rather 2 pairs),
a motor-driven volume pot, and arduino and a IR receiver for a handheld remote.
When finished i can power on/off the stereo ( both vta-70 and preamp will have their SSR) and control the volume with the remote.
Not bad for a modded 1960 device :-)

You'll also want to add a head position indicator that would shut the system down if you happen to nod off during a session. Add a time delay if you're a head knocker ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=doozZNDoxjI

sKiZo wrote:How decadent ...   

One thing you need to remember - tube equipment really really hates short power cycles, so whatever you go with, you'll want to leave a couple minutes between hitting the button. Don't expect to be using it as a mute.


Speaking of which ...

End of line ...

The turn-on turn-off cycle is easily described in the control program of the arduino.
( wait 30s after power-on for the arduino before even the possibility to turn on, and
power to the amp(s) off after power failure. Also i might detect power glitches where the arduino still have power but the mains has been glitching, then i may turn power off)
Fun to be able to combine working skills with hobby!
I am more concerned with the mechanics ( how to connect a DC motor to turn a pot) then with the programming.

The catodfollovers will be there to adapt for tape-output ( soundcards has lower impedance then tubeeqip ) and also to driv a little longer cable to the vta-70. But that is known territory and well documented.

I have two of the arduino type boards (CAI boards) that I use to control two greenhouses. I have a good supply of 25A SSR's as well. Pretty easy project. My volume and music are already fully automated through XBMC and a Nuforce DAC. Just need the amp on/off function.

Oh.  Dang...    

That is far too simple for us folks here!!!

to peterh

You might want to consider using one of these, or similar type of pot

http://www.ebay.com/itm/new-6-channel-20K-6-ALPS-Remote-Motor-Volume-Potentiometer-Control-Adjustable-/331212835481?pt=US_Amplifier_Parts_Components&hash=item4d1dd2ca99

This should work with the aduino

Bally wrote:to peterh

You might want to consider using one of these, or similar type of pot

http://www.ebay.com/itm/new-6-channel-20K-6-ALPS-Remote-Motor-Volume-Potentiometer-Control-Adjustable-/331212835481?pt=US_Amplifier_Parts_Components&hash=item4d1dd2ca99

This should work with the aduino

Thanks !  I have ordered one.  The remote might even work for me !

Edit: there is a small chance that i can use the power control without an arduino, which saves me som work and $$
Again: thanks for the tip. I owe you a beer !

I use a remote control power strip from Belkin on my ST-120 and M-125:
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Conserve-Switch-Energy-Saving-Protector/dp/B003P2UMNK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1402181030&sr=8-1&keywords=belkin+remote+surge

Just push the button on the remote and the amp starts up, along with the nearby Airport Express.
The power strip also has a latching feature so that it won't automatically turn on if there is a brief power interruption.

bcinnamon wrote:I use a remote control power strip from Belkin on my ST-120 and M-125:
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Conserve-Switch-Energy-Saving-Protector/dp/B003P2UMNK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1402181030&sr=8-1&keywords=belkin+remote+surge

Just push the button on the remote and the amp starts up, along with the nearby Airport Express.
The power strip also has a latching feature so that it won't automatically turn on if there is a brief power interruption.

No thanks. I like the concept with an SSR inside each box, allowing a small DC to control at my will.

The final solution (!) will be an arduino that controls several units where the
arduino itself is both controlled with buttons and remote control,whichever that suits me best. Here i can control conditions and timing of on / off , and also react on power outages with common sense. Other features s.a. automatic shutdown after prolonged usage and no user activity ( a.k.a. sleeping-owner-detector) or ( forgor-to-turn-off-detector) is easily done in software.

Why buy cheap when one can build expensive ??