Hi all - I am working on a design, and then a build, of some custom-built M125's. I would love some input as I design and build the amps.
To start things off, I will share that I have custom built Hypex nCore Class D amps for my fronts (Maggie 1.7's) that I listen to in 2-channel mode with my pre-amp being an Emotiva XMC-1 (via an LH Labs DAC). I will continue to use the nCores for multi-channel use and the M125's for 2-channel.
I am opting for a custom-built case because: a) I can. b) It's fun. c) Why not? Other than - in doing so, I could screw something up - which I don't want to do!
Some basics...
1) I don't like having the bias test points and power switch on the front for aesthetic reasons. So, I want to change that.
2) We have cats. They like to lay on top of stuff. I want to protect my e-gear from that.
3) My whole setup (my stereo stand, by nCores, etc) uses a mix of poplar, aluminum, and smoked glass...so new stuff will fit the "look"
So, I have laid out the existing M125 design and an inital cut at my own design. I am open to change based on input to avoid aesthetic desires overcoming my #1 objective - great sound.
With that, here's an approximately to scale layout of the M125:
And, here is what I am looking at doing. A few comments... 1st - I want the output tubes displayed across the front to show them off. 2nd - I want the tube glow to be visible, but a little subdued. 3rd - I want to "hide" the other gear behind the output tubes. 4th - I want the power switch and bias test points to not be on the front. 5th - I want the poplar wood/smoked glass look to continue to match my gear. 6th - I want a removable cover to keep the cats off.
As such, I plan to modify the layout to have the output tubes across the front behind a smoked glass "wall" that is across the front and surround the whole amp. Glass will be held in place by aluminum brackets commonly used on custom shower enclosures. And, instead of the standard case, the case will have front/sides made of poplar with a top and bottom panel made of the same gauge stainless steel as the Bob Latino kits with the overall size increasing to 12" x 12". Power on switch moves to the side. Bias test points move to the top plate where shown on the below. I MAY make a right-left specific version, with the only difference being the left/right positioning of the driver board. And, I will have a removable cover (built of poplar and black cloth ) to keep dust out and cats off the main parts when not in use. It will come off once I power up.
Layout would be as follows:
The fixtures that attach the glass to the poplar would be like the following...90 degree ones to attach the glass to the glass and would be vertical. Other ones would attach glass to wood on at least 4 points to provide a gap between the wood and glass. Exact finish can vary but will either be dark to match the glass or raw aluminum to match some other aspects of my gear.
Some have voiced a concern about:
1) noise from changing the layout.
2) hear from enclosing the tubes in glass on the side.
Regarding #1 - I would follow as closely as possible the wiring layout used - with appropriate twisted pairs and orthagonal layouts of wires and avoiding crossing of wires with various parts.
Regarding #2 - I read that the tubes can get "hot", and some advised that putting them close to glass would trap the heat. So, I searched and found temps of typical 100 watt light bulbs and found them to be in line with the tube temps of a tube amp. And, I used my IR temp gauge to find that my halogen bulbs in by kitchen run comparable temps to tube amp tubes. And, despite glass fixtures being in intimate contact with the bulbs - the outside temp of the bulbs is 100 degrees less than the bulb temp. Net, I am thinking the heat impacts of having glass about 1" away from the tubes is negligible.
Thoughts on the design?
Thanks,
Mark
To start things off, I will share that I have custom built Hypex nCore Class D amps for my fronts (Maggie 1.7's) that I listen to in 2-channel mode with my pre-amp being an Emotiva XMC-1 (via an LH Labs DAC). I will continue to use the nCores for multi-channel use and the M125's for 2-channel.
I am opting for a custom-built case because: a) I can. b) It's fun. c) Why not? Other than - in doing so, I could screw something up - which I don't want to do!
Some basics...
1) I don't like having the bias test points and power switch on the front for aesthetic reasons. So, I want to change that.
2) We have cats. They like to lay on top of stuff. I want to protect my e-gear from that.
3) My whole setup (my stereo stand, by nCores, etc) uses a mix of poplar, aluminum, and smoked glass...so new stuff will fit the "look"
So, I have laid out the existing M125 design and an inital cut at my own design. I am open to change based on input to avoid aesthetic desires overcoming my #1 objective - great sound.
With that, here's an approximately to scale layout of the M125:
And, here is what I am looking at doing. A few comments... 1st - I want the output tubes displayed across the front to show them off. 2nd - I want the tube glow to be visible, but a little subdued. 3rd - I want to "hide" the other gear behind the output tubes. 4th - I want the power switch and bias test points to not be on the front. 5th - I want the poplar wood/smoked glass look to continue to match my gear. 6th - I want a removable cover to keep the cats off.
As such, I plan to modify the layout to have the output tubes across the front behind a smoked glass "wall" that is across the front and surround the whole amp. Glass will be held in place by aluminum brackets commonly used on custom shower enclosures. And, instead of the standard case, the case will have front/sides made of poplar with a top and bottom panel made of the same gauge stainless steel as the Bob Latino kits with the overall size increasing to 12" x 12". Power on switch moves to the side. Bias test points move to the top plate where shown on the below. I MAY make a right-left specific version, with the only difference being the left/right positioning of the driver board. And, I will have a removable cover (built of poplar and black cloth ) to keep dust out and cats off the main parts when not in use. It will come off once I power up.
Layout would be as follows:
The fixtures that attach the glass to the poplar would be like the following...90 degree ones to attach the glass to the glass and would be vertical. Other ones would attach glass to wood on at least 4 points to provide a gap between the wood and glass. Exact finish can vary but will either be dark to match the glass or raw aluminum to match some other aspects of my gear.
Some have voiced a concern about:
1) noise from changing the layout.
2) hear from enclosing the tubes in glass on the side.
Regarding #1 - I would follow as closely as possible the wiring layout used - with appropriate twisted pairs and orthagonal layouts of wires and avoiding crossing of wires with various parts.
Regarding #2 - I read that the tubes can get "hot", and some advised that putting them close to glass would trap the heat. So, I searched and found temps of typical 100 watt light bulbs and found them to be in line with the tube temps of a tube amp. And, I used my IR temp gauge to find that my halogen bulbs in by kitchen run comparable temps to tube amp tubes. And, despite glass fixtures being in intimate contact with the bulbs - the outside temp of the bulbs is 100 degrees less than the bulb temp. Net, I am thinking the heat impacts of having glass about 1" away from the tubes is negligible.
Thoughts on the design?
Thanks,
Mark