High value items in audio today ...

.

Apple AirPort Express $99 or Apple TV $99 either device turns your iTunes device into a wireless music streaming system. Perhaps not quite up to vinyl sonic standards--but this device encouraged everyone in my home to use "high end" audio systems that they had avoided in the past. If you are careful with iTunes' volume control (or if you have a a passive attenuator) you can run the line out from these devices straight into your power amp.

Ditto on the Sovtek 5AR4 rectifiers from Guitar Center. I have had great results with these in my MkIII and ST-70. I have not purchased any other 5AR4 since I started buying these ~2011.

Pittsburgh 47257 Digital caliper $9.99 (on sale) from Harbor Freight. I use this to measure guitar strings, inside diameter of panel holes, chassis thickness, tube socket outside diameter (not very standardized!), etc. Switch between imperial and metric with the touch of a button. Probably not recommended by the Mitutoyo, Starret, Snap-on crowd :-)

Mogami's entry level 3000 series RCA interconnects. Well built, quiet, and performing well above their price point. What with 46 interconnects in my system, those qualities are important, and I've never had a bad one.

http://www.performanceaudio.com/item/mogami-3503/10726/

Bob Latino wrote:
1. The Stahl SSVT variable temperature soldering station from Parts Express This costs less than $20 and works well. Use moderate heat for soldering on circuit boards. Crank up the heat level for chassis connections.

I've always gone with high heat on circuit boards. Low heat keeps the iron on the board longer increasing the chances of lifting a pad or trace. I run my Weller station at 715F, keep the tip tinned and fluxed, and use short touches. Touch the iron, then the solder, to the component first to preheat that, and run the tip down to the pad as that heats a lot quicker. Instant puddle that way. I'll come back later and dress all the connections after trimming the leads.

Works for me, anyway.

I took Bob's advice and use Blue Jeans Cable for most interconnects in my two systems; no disappointments. The outfit that sold me my bi-wired speaks tried to talk me into "upgrading" to some $8k audioquest speaker cables; I could hear no difference.
If you're into silver (I am) best chap and prices I've dealt with is Paul at Clear Day Cables in Tucson
http://www.cleardaycables.com/index.php
Very personable and he'll ship you a trial set of coax or speaker cabling gratis.

Great thread, Dr. Latino.

Very interesting thread on speaker cables I built mine following the direction on the attached web site at a reasonable cost

http://diyaudioprojects.com/Power/Low-Inductance-DIY-Speaker-Cables/

I took a chance on a Chinese DAC and it has performed well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gustard-ES9018-DAC-x10-DAC-Decoder-Xmos-USB-Support-DSD-XLR-Balanced-Output-AQ-/191296392659?pt=US_Amplifier_Parts_Components&hash=item2c8a274dd3

My favorite speaker cables are Kimber 4VS and 4TC.

Pre-terminated costs more. I recommend if possible to get bare ends to save a few bucks. Check for local dealers or try Www.audioadvisor.com

I've hand-braided all of my interconnects using Homegrownaudio wire. Makes good internal wire too. Www.homegrownaudio.com

I highly recommend Isoacoustics speaker stands. www.isoacoustics.com

ATS Acoustics makes inexpensive room treatment panels that look great and work well. www.atsacoustics.com

Hi Bob, et al,

1. I used the exact same Stahl soldering station to build my VTA-70 last Feb. Works great! Buy 4 extra tips for only 4.95. I use a Hakko tip cleaner, but P-E has a similar one. Tip Cleaner

2. Instead of the Sovtek 5AR4, I prefer the Weber WZ-68. Better, tighter, sound and more reliable.

3. I currently use the Shuguang EL-34s in my VTA-70. Warm, open sound, reliable, with little bias drift! Got them from the site mentioned by Bob. Replaced $159 cryoed EH6550s.

4. I use Kimber Kable for interconnects. Buy the individual TCSS strands from Michael Percy Audio, and use your power drill to twist them together. Terminate them with Amphenol plugs from Parts-Express. KImber TCSS is also sold by Parts Connexion. PcX

5. No recommendations for speaker cable. You can re-purpose old speaker cable to use as Power Cords. Much better than the stock IEC wire in the box. Oyaide connectors from eBay. Oyaide


Thanks for looking!

Bob, this should be a sticky!

Ipod Touch 5 or Iphone 5. Under $200 and dropping!

Based on Ken Rockwell's fine article, I decided to build a complete front end for my ST-70 for less than $200.

1. Ipod 5 touch or Iphone 5 (under $200)
2. XBMC on jailbroken Ipod or Iphone. Allows for bit perfect Flac playback from file server. (Free)
3. Yatse app on Android phone. Allows complete control of XBMC and volume. (Free)

With the Ipod/Iphone running on clean battery power, I get better sound than any other source that I have tried. People are also a little shocked when they see a tiny Ipod driving the amp! I also get the added benefit of using the XBMC's display for music visualizations while playing.

http://www.kenrockwell.com/apple/ipod-touch-5g/audio-quality.htm

Mike

to each his own of course, when the Stahl iron first came out around 5-6 years ago I bought one to compare with my Weller STC-100 that cost $50.
It's $39 now on my website here: http://astore.amazon.com/tub02-20/detail/B000AS28UC
At that time, that was the single best investment in time and money I'd made in electronics. I used the Stahl for a few weeks, then went back to the Weller.
Never returned since, so if anyone wants a Stahl that was only used a couple weeks, they can have mine for $15 to cover the shipping cost.
I also agree with sKiZo, I set my iron at a fairly high temp (not all the way up, but 3/4) and find I can do a perfect solder joint on average in 2 seconds.
Better to use high heat for 2 seconds than low heat for 5-10 seconds. Solder should melt instantly, and then leave the iron there another second
to let it completely flow into and around the joint.

poconoman wrote:Bob, this should be a sticky!

Only if you can make sticky folders and stick your stickies in those, otherwise stick it ... too many stickies as is ... can't see the trees for the forest!

Some good stuff here though ...

Either soldering iron will do a good job! Stahl offers 4 extra tips for only about 5 bucks!

I use a 100 watt Weller soldering gun for bigger jobs, such as chassis work. The Weller is probably 50 yrs. old; just needed a new cord and, of course, new tips. Follow SkiZo's recommendations: high heat to melt solder quickly, then remove iron.

Thanks for looking.

A few years ago bit the bullet and bought a Weller WES51 now around the $100 range. The best investment I ever made when it comes to electronics. I fully agree with a hot soldering iron, but not to hot. Just like Roy described. I find the hardest thing to get a good soldering joint on is the old fashion soldering strips. I find adding a little rosin flux to the strip and wire before soldering makes it a lot easier. I also have several tips but for overall tube electronics usage the flat head that comes with the unit works the best. I use 60/40 no clean and stay away from silver, no lead and boutique solders. I know of one person who had a solder meltdown in an amp. that was soldered with WBT solder. An easy melt solder designed for interconnects but now sold as a high end solder for everything. But to each his own. Again just my 2 cents.

Since we're talking about soldering irons, I'll join the band wagon.

THIS is one great machine. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2059210.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XAOYUE+9378+&_nkw=AOYUE+9378+&_sacat=0

I just picked this up for an ST-70 build, and it's very useful:


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pro-Line-Helping-Hands-Soldering-Station-with-10-LEDs-Illuminated-Magnifier-/171251727604?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27df65fcf4


This one is better built than current model from Radio Shack.

Note that "Best Offer" is accepted, so you may get this for less

Speaking of DACs ... I love my Maverick D1+ ... performs WELL above it's price point.







http://www.mav-audio.com/base/product/d1p/dac_comp_d1p

Has a tube pre built in that adds a lot of flavor to the music coming into the ST120. Stock is great, but it really shines with opamp upgrades (OPA627 x2) and an upgrade to a decent NOS tube. Maverick does have a GE 5 Star as an option instead of the Chinese tube. I got that and also quite a collection of 5670 alternates for rolling. Primary source for digital music is an HTPC server - supposed to have real decent audio built in, but the Maverick is a HUGE step up from that.

PS ... they also offer a D2 which is a better digital performer, but you do lose the analog inputs. I plug my turntable into that via an external stage for some of that tooby goodness from vinyl ... also, I prefer the sound of the Tenor chipset on the USB side of the D1+. It just works exceptionally well with my system. Nice to have options though.

Killer headphone amp also ... real popular with the college crowd and late night listeners.

I purchased a Heathkit GH-17A Soldering Station way back in the early '70's....S/N 07539. I believe I paid around $20.
The unit still works great and has the original spade tip that still looks new. It has melted many feet of solder, helping to build several computers with discrete components, test equipment, radios, HiFi stereos and many other small projects, including those that my children made. I still enjoy its "feel" while using it and I'm looking forward to building this ST70 with the octal driver board.
I will most likely wear out before it does....

http://www.w6ze.org/Heathkit/Heathkit_005_GH17.pdf

I agree with one of the High Value item's in Bob's post at the beginning of this thread.
The Shaguang (Valve Arts) EL-34's are a great bargin and sound great to my ear.

The 5AR4 tubes are still available for a bit under $16 plus shipping here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sovtek-5AR4-GZ34-rectifier-tubes-NEW-/160919829856?pt=US_Home_Audio_Amplifiers_Preamps&hash=item257791bd60

I still like this one ...



http://www.amazon.com/TRC-90033-Shockshield-Portable-Protection/dp/B000XVG72G/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1415500409&sr=8-5&keywords=gfci+adapter
TRC 90033 Shockshield White Portable GFCI Plug with Surge Protection

Placed between the wall power and amp, it requires a manual reset on ANY momentary blip that can otherwise do some serious damage.

Priceless.

Check out the drivers (and other assorted items) at this site.   I have built some quite decent sounding speakers very inexpensively from here:

http://www.mavin.com/

sKiZo wrote:I still like this one ...



http://www.amazon.com/TRC-90033-Shockshield-Portable-Protection/dp/B000XVG72G/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1415500409&sr=8-5&keywords=gfci+adapter
TRC 90033 Shockshield White Portable GFCI Plug with Surge Protection

Placed between the wall power and amp, it requires a manual reset on ANY momentary blip that can otherwise do some serious damage.

Priceless.

Yep. Required equipment.

sKiZo wrote:I still like this one ...



http://www.amazon.com/TRC-90033-Shockshield-Portable-Protection/dp/B000XVG72G/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1415500409&sr=8-5&keywords=gfci+adapter
TRC 90033 Shockshield White Portable GFCI Plug with Surge Protection

Placed between the wall power and amp, it requires a manual reset on ANY momentary blip that can otherwise do some serious damage.

Priceless.

I just got one of those based on all the positive recommendations.  Thanks sKiZo!