THX! Mark
+4
Roy Mottram
Bob Latino
sailor
metlmrk
8 posters
Plating Sources
metlmrk- Posts : 9
Join date : 2011-06-23
- Post n°1
Plating Sources
I will be starting a restoration on a pair of MKII amps over the winter. I think I would like to have the chassis and baseplates replated, I will be painting the transformers and cages. can anyone recommend a replating business? Yes I know they can be purchased new, Yes I know that the lettering will be removed. Its just that I enjoy bringing the origional parts back to life.
THX! Mark
THX! Mark
sailor- Posts : 269
Join date : 2011-04-04
- Post n°2
Re: Plating Sources
Check in your local area. Most towns with 75,000 people have at least one plating shop. If you can't locate one ask local body shops or old car parts places. 2 reasons to go local. You can work on a better price by taking the part to them when it is best for them to do the parts. No shipping. Price will probably be 50 to 100 dollars depending on how much he wants your business.
Bob Latino- Admin
- Posts : 3258
Join date : 2008-11-26
Location : Massachusetts
- Post n°3
Re: Plating Sources
metlmrk wrote:I will be starting a restoration on a pair of MKII amps over the winter. I think I would like to have the chassis and baseplates replated, I will be painting the transformers and cages. can anyone recommend a replating business? Yes I know they can be purchased new, Yes I know that the lettering will be removed. Its just that I enjoy bringing the origional parts back to life.
THX! Mark
Hi Mark,
If you have the chassis replated and don't have the original Dynaco silk screening on there then the chassis won't look original. I have seen chassis that were replated and don't have the original silk screening and personally, I don't like the effect. Check the two photos below for a front and back photo of an original Dynaco ST-70 chassis that was replated at a cost of $200 with no Dynaco lettering. You may like the looks but for the costs involved you may be better off getting a stainless steel replacement chassis with all the correct lettering from Dynakitparts.
Bob
Roy Mottram- Admin
- Posts : 1840
Join date : 2008-11-30
- Post n°4
Re: Plating Sources
yes, I agree with Bob, that's really nice plating, but it looks weird. The stainless steel chassis are really really nice.
DynakitParts- Posts : 215
Join date : 2008-11-30
- Post n°5
My opinion
The reflection makes me look Fat...Like a fun house mirror.
Kevin
Bob Latino- Admin
- Posts : 3258
Join date : 2008-11-26
Location : Massachusetts
- Post n°6
Re: Plating Sources
I think what Kevin is getting at is that the plated surface does not reflect light evenly. This means that the nickel plating is not the same thickness over the surface of the chassis.
Bob
Bob
metlmrk- Posts : 9
Join date : 2011-06-23
- Post n°7
Re: Plating Sources
Ah Ha Ha Ha LOL You guys are killing me. Well, We'll have to agree to dis-agree on this one fellas! Dont worry,I buy lots of stuff from you guys and Im currently putting to gether an order for Dynakitparts and Im looking foward to doing lots of business in the future!
Although I reserve the right to change my mind. In an ongoing effort to clean out my workshop I have dicovered a Pas 2 in a box that has the origional brown brass faceplate. I remember now buying it because the knobs and face plate were as perfect as it gets. so now I'm gonna paint the MKII chassis dark wrinkle brown and the cages gold to match. This is to replace my shop st70/pas3 because I want to give it to my doughter for college graduation next year. Plus a few more watts in the shop is always a good thing. I have discovered one setback. The
mark II's I have were bought in pieces. It looks like I have one early MKII (big CKT card) One late (small CKT card) and one MKIII chassis as well. So Right now Im looking for an aditional chassis to match one of the ones I have now. I think I would like a MKIII for the choke. but if anyone has one to sell or trade please contact me. I also have a quade of mullard reissue EL-34's that are surplus for trading as well.
Bob the distorted reflection is due to substrate imperfections, that is, the metal is not flat so it does not reflect evenly.
Take care everyone, Mark
Although I reserve the right to change my mind. In an ongoing effort to clean out my workshop I have dicovered a Pas 2 in a box that has the origional brown brass faceplate. I remember now buying it because the knobs and face plate were as perfect as it gets. so now I'm gonna paint the MKII chassis dark wrinkle brown and the cages gold to match. This is to replace my shop st70/pas3 because I want to give it to my doughter for college graduation next year. Plus a few more watts in the shop is always a good thing. I have discovered one setback. The
mark II's I have were bought in pieces. It looks like I have one early MKII (big CKT card) One late (small CKT card) and one MKIII chassis as well. So Right now Im looking for an aditional chassis to match one of the ones I have now. I think I would like a MKIII for the choke. but if anyone has one to sell or trade please contact me. I also have a quade of mullard reissue EL-34's that are surplus for trading as well.
Bob the distorted reflection is due to substrate imperfections, that is, the metal is not flat so it does not reflect evenly.
Take care everyone, Mark
Roy Mottram- Admin
- Posts : 1840
Join date : 2008-11-30
- Post n°8
Re: Plating Sources
whether the metal itself is not flat, or the plating itself isn't flat, the plating is going to magnify any imperfections in either one.
When faced with a rusted out MK3 last year, I had the choice of either buying new for $95 each, or trying my luck with $5 worth of spray paint.
I was totally amazed how well the spray paint job came out (Rustoleum primer and then metallic black), saved me $180 on a rebuild job.
When faced with a rusted out MK3 last year, I had the choice of either buying new for $95 each, or trying my luck with $5 worth of spray paint.
I was totally amazed how well the spray paint job came out (Rustoleum primer and then metallic black), saved me $180 on a rebuild job.
j beede- Posts : 473
Join date : 2011-02-07
Location : California
- Post n°9
Re: Plating Sources
metlmrk wrote:Ah Ha Ha Ha LOL You guys are killing me. Well, We'll have to agree to dis-agree on this one fellas! Dont worry,I buy lots of stuff from you guys and Im currently putting to gether an order for Dynakitparts and Im looking foward to doing lots of business in the future!
Although I reserve the right to change my mind. In an ongoing effort to clean out my workshop I have dicovered a Pas 2 in a box that has the origional brown brass faceplate. I remember now buying it because the knobs and face plate were as perfect as it gets. so now I'm gonna paint the MKII chassis dark wrinkle brown and the cages gold to match. This is to replace my shop st70/pas3 because I want to give it to my doughter for college graduation next year. Plus a few more watts in the shop is always a good thing. I have discovered one setback. The
mark II's I have were bought in pieces. It looks like I have one early MKII (big CKT card) One late (small CKT card) and one MKIII chassis as well. So Right now Im looking for an aditional chassis to match one of the ones I have now. I think I would like a MKIII for the choke. but if anyone has one to sell or trade please contact me. I also have a quade of mullard reissue EL-34's that are surplus for trading as well.
Bob the distorted reflection is due to substrate imperfections, that is, the metal is not flat so it does not reflect evenly.
Take care everyone, Mark
If you're going with brown and gold on your Mk IIIs you might as well get some nice potted Peerless xfmrs and run 6L6 outputs!
j beede- Posts : 473
Join date : 2011-02-07
Location : California
- Post n°11
Re: Plating Sources
mantha3 wrote:Powercoating
Ditto... I vote for satin black powder coating. I would ask the powder coater if there is a way to mask some areas for making chassis grounding connections.
...j
heyraz- Posts : 59
Join date : 2011-10-26
- Post n°12
Re: Plating Sources
I plan on having fabricated a chrome plated cover for the VTA board of my ST70 with (3) holes for tubes. The VTA board (with components mounted underneath) will be mounted 1/4" below deck and the cover 1/4" above deck using stand-offs. Slots matching the ventilation slots of the ST70 and holes to reach the bias pots are likely. A local business seemed agreeable, I just need to submit drawings and a template. I may purchase extras for future projects or for sale if is incrementally cheap enough. If anyone is interested please let me know. This won't happen for a while, probably after the new year. Rich
mantha3- Posts : 303
Join date : 2010-11-10
- Post n°13
Re: Plating Sources
Chrome plated cover sounds cool!
I think Roy was selling some plexi glass cover that worked pretty much the same... You could buy one and use it as a template... I think you may need to think about the bias set Pots as well. I think roy had 4 holes for the bias pots.
Regardless, I'd be interested!
I think Roy was selling some plexi glass cover that worked pretty much the same... You could buy one and use it as a template... I think you may need to think about the bias set Pots as well. I think roy had 4 holes for the bias pots.
Regardless, I'd be interested!
heyraz- Posts : 59
Join date : 2011-10-26
- Post n°14
Re: Plating Sources
My plan is to mount all 6 pots on the topside of the VTA board and have them all adjustable through the cover plate. I'll keep you in mind.
mantha3- Posts : 303
Join date : 2010-11-10
- Post n°15
Re: Plating Sources
Nice, That works... I dun know if I need the AC Balance pots available... I messed with that 1 time and it didn't go to well... Nice plan regardless!
Bob Latino- Admin
- Posts : 3258
Join date : 2008-11-26
Location : Massachusetts
- Post n°16
Re: Plating Sources
The DC balance contols (bias pots) should be on the TOP of the board and the AC balance controls should be on the BOTTOM of the board. The reason is that once set at their mid point the two AC balance controls should be left there unless you have a signal or function generator to REadjust them. They are put on the bottom of the driver board so that you don't accidentally start turning them when you really just want to adjust the DC balance for each tube. Once set at their center position AND you use a matched quad of output tubes, those AC balance controls are, for all intents and purposes, at their optimum setting.
Bob
Bob
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