Pre-Order Questions for the PH16 Phono Preamp

Hi All, new to this forum...

I have been looking to build my own phono preamp (to replace my Dynavector P75) and based on all the positive reviews I think I've settled on the PH16. I've read through the web pages, as well as the threads here, but still have a few questions I'm hoping I can get answered. I am leaning towards the exposed tube version, by the way.

1. I can't find the gain listed anywhere. I know the PH14 is listed at 44dB (for MM), but I don't see it for the PH16. Can someone confirm what it is? I will be running it
with my TS Grounded Grid preamp, which has 52dB of gain.
2. I've built several set of speakers and crossovers, but the GG preamp was my first "active" component build. It went great and works like a charm, but admittedly the
kit was very complete and had great assembly instructions so it was an easy build. Is the PH16 kit and build guide adequate for a relative beginner like me? I'm not
concerned with populating the boards ... my main concern is with making all the connections between the P/S and preamp board, transformer, etc. Any input on this
would be appreciated. I just want to make sure I'll be able to figure it all out once I get it in front of me!
3. I run a MC cartridge (currently an AT33PTG/II). Is anyone else running this cartridge, or similar, and what SUT are you using? I don't think I'll need a ton of gain, so
I'm thinking a 1:10 ratio would be adequate, and with the selectable input impedance options and a parallel resistor I should be able to get the impedance to the 100-
200 ohms the cartridge likes to see. Not so much a question, I guess, as a confirmation that I'm thinking though this correctly. I'll need to buy or build a SUT (maybe
the Luhndahl kit) since I haven't needed one with the P75, and I want to make sure I get it right before plunking any $$ down.
4. Are there other components needed in addition to what comes with the kit (wire, for example), or is it complete?

Thanks for the help ... just trying to get my mind around this before I take the leap.

Tom

I finished my PH-16X a few weeks ago and I love it.

As background, my system includes a Denon DL103 cartridge, a SUT from Ned Clayton, a stepped attenuator, and my VTA ST70.  No line preamp.  The DL103 has 0.3mV output which I believe is about the same as your AT.  The SUT has selectable 15 or 30 turn ratio but I've been using mostly the 15 turn setting.  It's a nice little unit and well made and you can contact Ned -- he's very helpful.  Here's the link to it:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4722-Moving-Coil-Phono-Step-Up-Transformer-MC-SUT-box-incl-Beyer-Transformers/123583289827?hash=item1cc62359e3:g:yLAAAOSwM0FZyXhd:rk:31&frcectupt=true

I don't know the gain for the PH-16 but I guessing it's around 45 dB as it plays at a similar level to my old phono preamp which has 45 dB gain.  The dip switch settings will affect the loudness.  I'm currently using 47kOhm with the 15 turns of the SUT and my volume control is at 2 to 3 o'clock.  If you'll be using your line preamp, gain should't be an issue at all.

I built the X model with tubes sticking through the top cover.  Assembling it was, I believe. a bit more challenging than the box version because of the way you have to mount the boards to the top plate while connecting the wiring.

Roy will tell you that his instructions are not step-by-step and you need to have some basic understanding of wire routing, grounding, schematic reading.  If you get stumped, just ask Roy.  He's very helpful.  You need a good soldering set up for sure, but no fancy test gear -- just a good multimeter.

I had to do a bit of drilling/tapping but you shouldn't need to with the box version. (I had Roy do some different things with my chassis).

dave

Thanks for the response, Dave. I too plan to build the X version. Are you saying you still had to do some drilling and tapping, or was that because you changed some things in the design? Not that I couldn't do some drilling if needed, but I would assume the case is ready to go if I didn't stray from the stock design, correct?

Thanks for the info on the SUT. I've looked at Ned's SUTs on eBay ... the look nice, and are a fair price if you pick up your own transformers. I think the Denon requires a different loading than the AT, even though the output is similar. I'll continue to research SUTs in the interim to make sure I get the right configuration.

If you get a chance and it's not too difficult, could you post some pics of your build?

Thanks again.

Tom

Here are a couple of pics.  With the X version, you need to decide which components to put on which sides of the boards.  I had Roy put the inputs/outputs, switch and power cord on the rear/side of the steel box.  He also cut an opening on the top plate to access the dip switches.  (He charges a small amount to do this).  I drilled the top plate for the power indicator LED because I hadn't decided where to put it when I ordered.  I also had to drill/tap the steel chassis for the top plate mounting screws.  I think Roy might have just forgotten to do this what with all the other changes going on.

Sorry about the fuzzy pic...

Hi Tom (and any others interested)

for questions about the PH16, quotes, ordering, anything, contact me DIRECTLY via email.
I also sell a Lundahl SUT on the PH16 web page for less than some other vendors.

www.tubes4hifi.com/PH16.htm

info@tubes4hifi.com