Driver Board Cap Question

Say on a stock Mk III does the .1uf need to be the same type of cap as the .25uf coupling caps?

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Good info as always, Thanks. Here is a mock up. I would cut the leads and mount wire leads (Dynakit hookup wire) at the center, but I am a little worried about them being so close to the KT-88s. Would they get any feedback, or too much heat from the tubes? The Russian Teflons are just nutty big and forget about putting one in front.







Some different angles.

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I'll give it a try. I was going to mount them with 3M 4941 VHB Acrylic foam tape. It will support 90 lbs. per square in, is good till 300 degrees f, and is UL listed. The tape is .45mm think and I may stack two pieces to give it a little more height off the board. What's on there now is the backing paper of the tape. They still need to be trimmed the length of the cap.
I was thinking of cutting down leads about of a 1/4" and drilling a new mounting hole to run the wire. Once soldered, shrink tubed. I was going to give up on them all together because they didn't fit on the stock board, but the Dynakit board packs the front resistors tighter. They are kind of ugly, but I am out of real-estate underneath.
Someone said on another Forum they sounded better cutting off the metal case off. It looked like a marshmallow. Anyway..... Thanks for the help.

Can they be mounted on the bottom of the board?

Yes, but it is still a tight squeeze as they have to be fairly close to the board to avoid contact with the bottom cover. They are also very heavy and I wouldn't trust the industrial tape as the sole mounting method. This gives you a rough idea of them underneath the board.



To be honest it's probably not worth the effort above or below. I am still waiting on two that are somewhere between Ohio and Moscow. If they haven't showed by the time I get the second amp built, I may just use K-40's all the way around and be done with it. I had seen pictures and knew the dimensions, but didn't quite grasp their shear size. I think the saying is: "Well it looked good on paper."

You could try a layer of clear heat-shrink around the body of those caps and attaching them to the board with stranded wire. Then use your foam tape on the bottom cover to add some support (sticky side to the bottom cover and don't remove the paper from the side facing the caps).

Thanks Ken that's a good idea. I hadn't though of shrink tubing the the cap. I picked up some 1.5" clear shrink tubing and will explore that option further.