How to properly house-wire your sound system?

AC from the wall drives all such equipment.
I'm open to sage advice on this subject. This does not apply specifically to VTA gear, but to any multi-component hi-fi sound-system (Bose Radio owners, move on, nuttin' to see here).
I will start with my oft-harped-on belief that the best way is to dedicate a grounded wire of Romex from a dedicated 20-amp breaker to a grounded manual-reset GFCI outlet that only the hi-fi gets to use. Nothing else gets to play on that line.
Further, what say ye? No talk of floating grounds or interconnects. Those are separate issues.

That's sounds like the best way to supply power to the sound system. But until I win the 650 million dollar lottery the outlets in the walls I currently have will have to suffice.

Dogstar wrote:That's sounds like the best way to supply power to the sound system. But until I win the 650 million dollar  lottery the outlets in the walls I currently have will have to suffice.

Price of 50 feet of Romex: $30: https://www.amazon.com/Southwire-28828222-2WG-Wire-50-Foot/dp/B000BQSL3G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503439204&sr=8-1&keywords=12+gauge+romex
Price of hospital-grade outlet: $8.73: https://www.grainger.com/product/52JL81&AL!2966!3!50916778077!!!g!93711479157!?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxaLlze_r1QIVRpN-Ch2p3wQZEAQYASABEgK9M_D_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA?campaignid=175664997&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!50916778077!!!!93711479157!&ef_id=WP9lDAAAAb6Ur9p4:20170822221840:s
Price of manual-reset GFCI, about $30: http://development.towermfg.com/gfci-in-line/
Price of 20-amp circuit breaker for the panel, about $27. https://www.grainger.com/product/1D234&AL!2966!3!50916778317!!!g!81032185797!?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-rmM8-7r1QIVgzRpCh2H6QaHEAQYBCABEgJnH_D_BwE&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA?campaignid=175664997&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!50916778317!!!!81032185797!&ef_id=WP9lDAAAAb6Ur9p4:20170822221549:s
So for about $100, you're all in.
And you can use any existing outlet box. Just yank all the extraneous stuff from that circuit and stick it on another breaker. I was giving you the Cadillac solution, but still, no need to win the lottery. Hire an electrician to do it, which adds another $100 maybe you're still well within lottery budget. Two-thirds of his cost of this is the labour involved in pulling wire. Offer to help. It's not rocket science.
Again, your hi-fi set-up, whether VTA, Marantz, MacIntosh, will thank you.

When I travel, I carry a 1900-box containing a 20A motor-rated single-pole switch, and a wet-location-rated 20A GFIC receptacle. This brings all my 'grounds' to one location when I set up the clinic and the transmitters. And, I do verify that ground.

And as I am typically working "outside", albeit under roof, I run all the clinic patients and test instruments through a metered Iso-Variac. Asphalt is not as conductive as concrete, but there is, often enough, water around. Like this:

https://images.reverb.com/image/upload/s--JNw-g46---/a_exif,c_limit,e_unsharp_mask:80,f_auto,fl_progressive,g_south,h_620,q_90,w_620/v1480359327/ejbdtdssabtfngtmujtd.jpg

Shameless plug: http://www.dvhrc.com/kutztown.html

As for the systems at home: What Dave said!

A few years ago I bought a Krell amp to replace my old Carver , I wanted a quality amp for my power hungry Infinity speakers , the Krell manuel said it should have it's own dedicated 20 amp line ! So I actually ran two 20 Amp lines from the box over to where my stereo is kept .  One for the amp and the other for everything else . No hum problem with this set up . It was just a couple new breakers  a roll of romex and a couple quality outlets , also I put a on - off switch on the one line so I don't have to reach around the back of the amp to turn the power switch on . It was just a couple hours work . Although It was a PITA to drill through 5 or 6 inches of cement by the fireplace pad to run the wire through ! I didn't realize that till too late .
 We don't use the fireplace so I actually mounted my turntable shelf to the brick wall , you can drop a bomb a foot away and no turntable skip .

pigface wrote:A few years ago I bought a Krell amp to replace my old Carver , I wanted a quality amp for my power hungry Infinity speakers , the Krell manuel said it should have it's own dedicated 20 amp line ! So I actually ran two 20 Amp lines from the box over to where my stereo is kept .  One for the amp and the other for everything else . No hum problem with this set up . It was just a couple new breakers  a roll of romex and a couple quality outlets , also I put a on - off switch on the one line so I don't have to reach around the back of the amp to turn the power switch on . It was just a couple hours work . Although It was a PITA to drill through 5 or 6 inches of cement by the fireplace pad to run the wire through ! I didn't realize that till too late .
 We don't use the fireplace so I actually mounted my turntable shelf to the brick wall , you can drop a bomb a foot away and no turntable skip .

It isn't the bricks so much as that the TT is on a bearing wall, which resonates separately from the floor. End of rumble/feedback. But bricks are good
For remote switching, consider one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q9EFUK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It takes a hell of a start-up surge from my s/s/ Bedini 200/200, which doesn't have an on-off switch, without blushing. Haven't tried it on the tubes yet. Pretty cool little gizmo.