ST-120 Power Switch Move

jimmeq wrote:I'm trying something different; asking first. So, rather than making a change and seeking help on how to get out of trouble, I am seeking advice beforehand.

My ST-120 is on the bottom shelf. There are three fans keeping the heat at bay so that's not an issue. What is an issue is having to get down on my knees and reaching back to power on and off. This wouldn't be so bad if I were not entering my sixth decade but no matter what it's in a hard to reach location.

So, I want to put the power switch up front where the attenuator would go. Is there any reason not to do this? If it is OK, what should I be aware of?

Peter W. wrote:

jimmeq wrote:I'm trying something different; asking first. So, rather than making a change and seeking help on how to get out of trouble, I am seeking advice beforehand.

My ST-120 is on the bottom shelf. There are three fans keeping the heat at bay so that's not an issue. What is an issue is having to get down on my knees and reaching back to power on and off. This wouldn't be so bad if I were not entering my sixth decade but no matter what it's in a hard to reach location.

So, I want to put the power switch up front where the attenuator would go. Is there any reason not to do this? If it is OK, what should I be aware of?

KISS...

https://www.amazon.com/FosPower-Wireless-Control-Resistant-Electrical/dp/B0798W2TZ1/ref=asc_df_B0798W2TZ1/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241986552631&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=931701768402974150&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9060374&hvtargid=pla-442272177981&psc=1    

They come as 1, 2 and 3 -outlet devices, typically rated around 15 amps, typically less than $20.

bbqjoe wrote:I have also given consideration to moving the power switch to the front.
I dislike reaching behind anything electrical, and especially reaching over hot tubes.

Wouldn't simply twisting the wires to the switch and routing them along the inside edge of the chassis suffice?

Bob Latino wrote:

bbqjoe wrote:I have also given consideration to moving the power switch to the front.
I dislike reaching behind anything electrical, and especially reaching over hot tubes.

Wouldn't simply twisting the wires to the switch and routing them along the inside edge of the chassis suffice?

If you absolutely need a power switch on the front, then you could plug the amp into a "power strip". You leave the switch on the amp ON and then keep the power strip near the front of your music system. Every time you turn the power strip ON, the amp comes on.

Bob

bbqjoe wrote:

Yeah I get it.
Maybe I'll use a "Clapper" (clap on, clap off...The clapper!)

But seriously, I think I'd prefer a toggle on the front.

Peter W. wrote:
If you want a toggle-switch on the front of your amp, put a toggle switch on the front of your amp. But to save it, and eliminate any potential modification problems, don't connect it to anything.

sKiZo wrote:
PS ... I moved my power switch up front on my custom build. Same thing, only different. The twisted wires run directly under the VTA board and have not given me any additional noise or problems.

bbqjoe wrote:

And this is why I don't understand what the fuss is all about.

Peter W. wrote:

bbqjoe wrote:

And this is why I don't understand what the fuss is all about.

There is an old expression: Your Mileage May Vary.

I once got into a discussion with an individual who made a constant habit of taking the contrarian position - on the basis that he was not a going to be a victim of Group Think. This discussion was on vehicular battery charging systems, and how to keep a battery charged on a stored vehicle when a float charger was not available. Other condition: It it is winter in a cold climate.

Consensus was: 15  - 20 minutes of run time, about every week to 10 days based on heating the engine through to prevent condensate in the oil and scored cylinder walls. All agreed that this would be vast overkill as to keeping the battery charged, but necessary for the longevity of the engine.

Our contrarian calculated on the charging capacity of the alternator at 1,000 rpm, battery size and age, and came up with 34 seconds at 1,000 rpm, stating that the water issue was 'debatable', especially over the expected life of the test (about 45 days). Cutting to the chase:

Fuss:
a) Generally we  should be resistant to changing a successful design for whimsical purposes, most especially if those/that purpose/s may be accommodated safely and effectively without change.
b) Due to any number of unknowns, our particular circumstance could be the one that suffers from the change.
c) Due to any number of unknowns, our particular circumstance could be the one that is greatly enhanced by the change.

Per Larry Niven (SF Writer:
When in doubt, do it by The Book - a) above.
Those who deviate from The Book and fail are court-marshaled - b) above.
Those who deviate from The Book and are successful - they get into The Book - c) above.

So, if we want to make changes to established designs - go for it. But be prepared for b) or c). And common sense (which isn't) suggests that if that risk may be avoided without penalty - then, perhaps, avoid it.