Bypassing Binding Posts

Anyone hard-wire their amps? (speakers)

Was thinking about losing the binding post altogether (M125) and possibly using wire screws, still would be able to disconnect if I had to, why? Because I can.

No, actually was impressed by losing the binding post on the speaker side by direct connection to the crossover. They were good posts too...

jfine wrote:Anyone hard-wire their amps? (speakers)

Was thinking about losing the binding post altogether (M125) and possibly using wire screws, still would be able to disconnect if I had to, why? Because I can.

No, actually was impressed by losing the binding post on the speaker side by direct connection to the crossover. They were good posts too...

a) Greatly reduces portability. May not be an issue for most, but audio in this household is constantly subject to change in any but the two core systems. Those will see changes only sporadically.
b) It is good to know that I can pull any device apart from any other device by the simple expedient of a sharp yank. And, as it happens, so can the 100-pound golden retriever. Without leaving components on the floor.

Funny thing how local circumstances drive life-choices. No uncovered tubes. Break-away connections, Turntables above cat-leap height (5 feet).

jfine wrote:Anyone hard-wire their amps? (speakers)

Was thinking about losing the binding post altogether (M125) and possibly using wire screws, still would be able to disconnect if I had to, why? Because I can.

No, actually was impressed by losing the binding post on the speaker side by direct connection to the crossover. They were good posts too...

I've heard of guys doing this. If you don't see yourself changing things anytime soon then why not? All of those dissimilar metals and connections probably muck up the sound ever so slightly.

I still prefer binding posts on my amps. Digikey sells nice copper binding posts by Mueller for about $8 a pop.

Just wondered about those who have done it, no portability lost if wire screws used (not part of the question as well), I have heard differences in using different binding posts on speakers, and with no binding post at all.

Edit: Also Bob I wasn't trying to diss those binding posts, they are good quality. The M125's are all around good quality parts, no complaints from me. But as a permanent tweaker, it's in my blood until I lose interest. (which I finally did with a 69 vette thank god)

Is "wire screw" another name for a terminal block where one tightens a little screw on bare wire inserted into a hole below the screw? Or is this another device I'm not familiar with?

Sounds like maybe you are proposing just a different termination of the wires rather than soldering your speaker wire straight to Xover and amp output?

vtshopdog wrote:Is "wire screw" another name for a terminal block where one tightens a little screw on bare wire inserted into a hole below the screw?  Or is this another device I'm not familiar with?

Sounds like maybe you are proposing just a different termination of the wires rather than soldering your speaker wire straight to Xover and amp output?

No I just get these names from others, these things

so bare wire out the end of the amp, use these for the bare end from the speaker. Easy disconnect if need be, copper to copper, no solder.

Wirenuts

Screw on wire nut connector thing

GP49 wrote:Wirenuts

I worked my way through school as an electrician - and have handled many wire nuts (also wing-nuts, fruits and nuts, and nuts of all stripes) in my time. They work - but their effectiveness is directly related to the wrist and finger strength of the user and/or the prep prior to use.

For solid wire, twist the wire together first making a good mechanical grab, clip square, then use the nut to preserve that grab against movement. And, "Dying Strain" are the watchwords when installing the nut.

For stranded wire, twist the strands together first, and twist until the entire wire starts to twist, and much strain applied.

For stranded-to-solid, extend the stranded about 1/8" beyond the solid - and as above thereafter.

The correct size is critical.

The final connection should be as strong as/stronger than the weakest wire in the chain, uncut.

jfine wrote:Screw on wire nut connector thing

I believe that's supposed to be "thingy".

GP49 wrote:Wirenuts

Yep. Wire-nuts.
Agreed w/ Bob L. bananas are sweet. Best ones are the cold-welded type available at Blue Jeans Cable. They lock down extremely tight and I bet you could pick up an M-125 with the speaker wiring.
Personally, I like spades as they've a tad more surface contact than anything other than tinned bare wire. But they *can* work loose so it's a good idea to re-torque from time to time. Wire nuts can be problematic, too. They've got to pass a pretty severe tug test and different gauge wires don't play well together in 'em.