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The Dynaco Tube Audio Forum

Dedicated to the restoration and preservation of all original Dynaco tube audio equipment - Customer support for Tubes4hifi VTA tube amp and preamp kits and all Dynakitparts.com products


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Peter W.
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    Powered Subwoofer With Pas2.......Driving Me Crazy!

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    Post by Daveinthedesert Wed Dec 06, 2017 1:23 pm

    Trying to hook up a powered sub with my Pas2 . Using a "y" connector out of main audio outs. Sometimes it works but usually I get a fuzzy- distorted sound out of the subwoofer. Not the sub because I hooked it up in my other "bedroom" system ( non tube) and works just fine. It's almost like by splitting the output on the Pas2 the sub isn't receiving enough of a line level signal. Anybody have subs with their Pas2's or3's? Anybody with thoughts or ideas please chime in.
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    Post by Guest Wed Dec 06, 2017 4:28 pm

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    Last edited by PeterCapo on Tue Dec 01, 2020 11:51 am; edited 2 times in total
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    Post by peterh Wed Dec 06, 2017 4:29 pm

    Daveinthedesert wrote:Trying to hook up a powered sub with my Pas2 . Using a "y" connector out of main audio outs. Sometimes it works but usually I get a fuzzy- distorted sound out of the subwoofer. Not the sub because I hooked it up in my other "bedroom" system ( non tube) and works just fine. It's almost like by splitting the output on the Pas2 the sub isn't receiving enough of a line level signal. Anybody have subs with their Pas2's or3's? Anybody with thoughts or ideas please chime in.

    The PAS2 has a limited driving capability.
    Is your sub transistorized ? And what s it's input impedance ?
    When you connect to 2 amps via a 'Y' the load impedancs is further reduced as
    the 2 amps are paralleled.
    You might need a buffer between the PAS and your load(s).
    Peter W.
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    Post by Peter W. Thu Dec 07, 2017 8:28 am

    Daveinthedesert wrote:Trying to hook up a powered sub with my Pas2 . Using a "y" connector out of main audio outs. Sometimes it works but usually I get a fuzzy- distorted sound out of the subwoofer. Not the sub because I hooked it up in my other "bedroom" system ( non tube) and works just fine. It's almost like by splitting the output on the Pas2 the sub isn't receiving enough of a line level signal. Anybody have subs with their Pas2's or3's? Anybody with thoughts or ideas please chime in.

    a) You will need to do the impedance mod on the PAS, if you have not done so already.
    b) Have tried driving the sub directly - no Y-connector? What happens then?
    c) That pre-amp has two outputs. Why the Y-connector?

    On the Impedance Mod:

    To do the impedance mod - per the Dynaco literature:

    1. Obtain two 100,000 ohm, 1/2-watt 10% tolerance resistors.
    2. Unsolder and discard the two 510,000 ohm (green-brown-yellow)
    resistors connected to the audio-output sockets on the back panel of
    the preamplifier and replace them with the 100,000 ohm resistors.
    Solder all connections.
    3. Snip out and discard the two 62,000 ohm (blue-red-orange) resistors
    on the PC-5 circuit board adjacent to eyelets 8 & 18. This completes
    the modification.

    Given the relative difference in cost, I would use 5% resistors and
    screen them as well.

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    Post by Guest Thu Dec 07, 2017 10:40 am

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    Post by Guest Thu Dec 07, 2017 10:45 am

    I think the bottom line here is that the original PAS was really not designed for this style of operation, I guess kinda like trying to cram a V8 engine into a 4 cylinder engine bay Wink
    Even with the suggested mod, still not a perfect solution for the poor ole PAS!
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    Post by Guest Thu Dec 07, 2017 10:52 am

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    Post by Guest Thu Dec 07, 2017 11:05 am

    indeed! Nobody disputes the upgradeability of any PAS model, after all, that's why we sell those upgrade kits Wink
    But it is still important to know the PAS' limitations.
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    Post by Guest Thu Dec 07, 2017 11:20 am

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    Post by Peter W. Thu Dec 07, 2017 12:13 pm

    One observation from 30,000 feet and many years of Dynaco:

    The OP calls what he has a PAS2. Whereas it is possible that prior to his ownership someone did the impedance mod, and it is *JUST* infinitesimally possible that it had that mod from the 'factory', the real odds of an OEM PAS2 being modded are slim at best. But, all he has to do is pop-the-top and look.
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    Post by Guest Thu Dec 07, 2017 12:15 pm

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    Post by GP49 Fri Dec 08, 2017 3:15 am

    With alteration of the in-circuit load resistors, a stock PAS can be modified to drive impedances down to about 25KΩ. When making this modification, I found the best way was a frequency sweep, while viewing a low-power output of the actual power amplifier being driven, on an oscilloscope. All the load resistors would be removed and a 100KΩ potentiometer, connected as a rheostat across the PAS's output, would be varied to provide the flattest output in the bass. The resistance would then be measured and duplicated using precision resistors in parallel.

    This procedure took into account the variations from manufacturer specifications, in the input impedance of the power amplifier, and variations in that impedance with frequency. If the user wanted to use a different power amplifier, the procedure would have to be repeated with that amp.
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    Post by Guest Fri Dec 08, 2017 11:00 am

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    Last edited by PeterCapo on Mon Nov 30, 2020 9:35 pm; edited 2 times in total (Reason for editing : Clarification.)
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    Post by peterh Fri Dec 08, 2017 11:09 am

    The one and only solution that does not involve soldering gun and lots of work is to add an external buffer. A few of the buffers on ebay is ok ( are pure cathode followers), a lot of them are not ok.

    One could wish for such a device , either as a circuit board for diy or mounted and ready or
    mounted in a box with power supply. If done simple it could be quite cheap.

    Any takers ?
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    Post by Guest Fri Dec 08, 2017 11:12 am

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    Post by peterh Fri Dec 08, 2017 12:24 pm

    PeterCapo wrote:peterh, can you recommend a specific external buffer as you mention?
    No. I build my own in an old FM-1 as i wanted a remote volume also.
    http://n.manet.nu/fm1/index.html

    But i do remember a thread here when one ebay device was found and used with
    good results.
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    Post by Guest Fri Dec 08, 2017 2:24 pm

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    Post by Peter W. Fri Dec 08, 2017 2:41 pm

    PeterCapo wrote:Okay, hold the phone for a minute, folks...

    The OP's main concern is the distortion he is getting from his subwoofer.  Could it be caused by DC offset at the PAS outputs?  A resistor might be able to be tweaked for a possible improvement in the impedance match.  But, if there is DC offset from the PAS and the powered subwoofer is having difficulty with it, then impedance matching is not the most immediate problem here.  Is it certain the input to the subwoofer is capacitor coupled?

    A small 1:1 transformer would isolate any DC offset. A number of equipment maker contemporaneous with Dynaco used interstage transformers for this purpose - AKA converting an unbalanced input to a balanced output. They are not expensive. Actually IS transformers survived right into the solid-state era and solved some inconvenient problems for those just starting to compete with tubes in power and resilience - AR for instance.

    Good catch!
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    Post by peterh Fri Dec 08, 2017 2:43 pm

    Peter W. wrote:
    PeterCapo wrote:Okay, hold the phone for a minute, folks...

    The OP's main concern is the distortion he is getting from his subwoofer.  Could it be caused by DC offset at the PAS outputs?  A resistor might be able to be tweaked for a possible improvement in the impedance match.  But, if there is DC offset from the PAS and the powered subwoofer is having difficulty with it, then impedance matching is not the most immediate problem here.  Is it certain the input to the subwoofer is capacitor coupled?

    A small 1:1 transformer would isolate any DC offset. A number of equipment maker contemporaneous with Dynaco used interstage transformers for this purpose - AKA converting an unbalanced input to a balanced output. They are not expensive. Actually IS transformers survived right into the solid-state era and solved some inconvenient problems for those just starting to compete with tubes in power and resilience - AR for instance.

    Good catch!

    good point !
    Even better , a small 5:1 transformer could take care of some of the misalignment
    Could even be mounted inside the PAS ( far from the mains transformer)
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    Post by Dave_in_Va Fri Dec 08, 2017 2:55 pm

    In case the OP needs a buffer, I bought this one and it still works perfectly (on the advice of peterh).

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/YAQIN-SD-CD2-Stereo-Audio-Processor-Tube-Buffer/132415150123?epid=1029041475&hash=item1ed48ed82b:g:uA8AAOSwrklVc26d

    ....and here's the old thread where we discussed how to get my old SP-10/PH-10 (since upgraded) to work with a CD burner.

    https://dynacotubeaudio.forumotion.com/t2378-connecting-a-cd-recorder-to-my-sp-ph10

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    Post by Guest Fri Dec 08, 2017 3:04 pm

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    Post by Pillo69 Sat Dec 16, 2017 1:43 pm

    It is clear that an external buffer (as Peterh has commented), or a new PCB with a cathode follower (model TCLA, Roy, for example), solve the problem of connection to computers or transistor equipment.
    But this new output influences the loss of quality with its connection to the ST70 ?.
    A greeting.
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    Post by peterh Sat Dec 16, 2017 3:17 pm

    Pillo69 wrote:It is clear that an external buffer (as Peterh has commented), or a new PCB with a cathode follower (model TCLA, Roy, for example), solve the problem of connection to computers or transistor equipment.
    But this new output influences the loss of quality with its connection to the ST70 ?.
    A greeting.
    No. A proper cathode buffer won't affect the sound in any negative way.

    In fact i'd suggest connecting the buffer at the PAS output and then the
    power amp and other stuff on the output of the buffer.
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    Post by deepee99 Sat Dec 16, 2017 3:42 pm

    May I posit that a *good* match between speakers and amp(s) does not need a subwoof.?
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    Post by Peter W. Sat Dec 16, 2017 4:23 pm

    deepee99 wrote:May I posit that a *good* match between speakers and amp(s) does not need a subwoof.?


    That works only if the main speakers are full range. More-or-less a rarity these days.

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