Made my own custom power strip.

tubes4hifi wrote:very very cool, I think I'll research doing a kit but with an internal 8A transformer, that would be enough to run an amp, preamp, and two sources, I'm guessing around $200 for parts,
the most expensive part is the custom machined top aluminum plate, could also save alot of $$ by making a smaller one with just an internal transformer, output voltage meter,
and just two outlets to plug strips into, probably under $100.

I'd buy one in a second!

Mine would be more expensive. If I were going to make a kit for my design it would cost $400.
Think it’s worth it?

Your box is a well thought out one. Every component is there for a good reason. The onboard meters are a necessity, checking voltage manually or with a plug-in display, looks to me like an unnecessary extra step forever. I learned this when  I bought two variable transformers, one with digital meters, the other without, I deeply regret not to have bought both with digital meters, it is very annoying to be checking voltage manually, or with a plug-in device ( which occupies an outlet ) when it should have been avoided. Thanks for sharing this magnificent build.

By far the most difficult part of a project like this is the cutouts for the receptacles.  How did you do it?  File by hand?  If so, very impressive indeed!  There are specific chassis punches for them but my recollection they are very expensive.  Even still, lining up a pair of them for a duplex would be nontrivial.  This part alone would be worth buying a kit for, if it existed.

I once built a chassis with filed by hand receptacle holes (power supply for Joe Curcio's "Daniel" preamp, if anyone remembers that).  I traced out the cutouts using a standard cover plate, drilled round center holes, and filed.  Didn't look so great.

If you did put out a kit you'd probably want to send the panels to a custom metal fabricator, in which case you'd have to be guaranteed a certain volume of sale so as not to take a loss.

You could wire the transformer to allow 2 stages of reduction or no reduction.

Yeeco @ Amazon voltmeters only require a round hole, so simplify machining
Yeeco 3 PCS Digital Mini LED Display Voltmeter AC 24-500V Digital Voltage Tester Meter Voltage Meter Monitor Green Red Yellow LED Signal Indicator Light Panel

I've posted this before but I think it's a real helpful site for people with 123-124 wall voltage.

https://robrobinette.com/5e3_Modifications.htm#Bucking_Transformer

I built my buckers from this layout (the simple one). If you're a hobbyist, you probably have alot of these parts laying around (except for the tranny, maybe).
I bought the parts and I think I spent around $35 or $40 dollars. I plug a power strip in and in one of the power strip outlets you can plug in one of these (double check it's setting...worlds smallest trim pot inside).

https://www.amazon.com/Eversame-80-300V-Voltmeter-Measuring-Household/dp/B015H0A3FO/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=plug+in+voltage+meter&qid=1595604934&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFOTFdTME85RUdSSFQmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwODg0OTgyS0tZMlVFVlgxMEoyJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA0NTcxMDkzNk0wMVNXSUpNRlVKJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

So, while not as classy as corndog's, it works and It's apparently fairly important not to run your VTA amp at 124 volts.
At a 7% drop with this bucker you get a nice 1965 style 115v.
I didn't bother using the 12% drop tap. as I couldn't see a use for it.

corndog71 wrote:

DavidR wrote:@corndog71 Does The reduced AC fluctuate if the Main AC changes or does it hold it steady at 117V ?

No, the transformer drops the main voltage by 6 volts regardless of what it’s at.  There is no regulation and no filter.  

That's what I thought it would be. I use a variac for my amp and this time of year with AC loads on and off the voltage is all over the place. No simple answer; even with a constant voltage transformer there would be some swing.

Do you have a schematic diagram?  At first I thought you were using the Triad Transformer as an external heater supply.  But it looks like you tied one side of the secondary to the hot side of the primary, and then are using the other secondary tap to feed x-6.3v (where x is the house voltage) to the hot side of the 4 AC outlets on that side of the device?  Thats very cleaver (IMO).  It beats having a large variac sitting in front of everything.  Is the Triad device 6.3V with a center tap, or really 12.6v with a center tap?  I ask because with a high-current selector switch, you could have x-6.3 and x-12.6 (or I guess x-6.3 and x-3.15) as choices.  The expense of the machined panel is worth it.  It looks really nice. [I see someone else posted a diagram that explains this]

Nice project.  The thing is, that's all made for use in the good old US of A.  But what about other people in other countries (we are out here, you know) where plugs are different (whatever is "hospital grade"?), and voltages  and line frequency vary. I have some equipment that operates at 120 and others at 240v.  And, depending on the part of the country, the line frequency can be either 50 or 60 Hz.

Hospital grade devices must endure torture tests, that all others don't, in order to get the Hospital grade classification.
that is why they are expensive. There is talented and unselfish people in every country if they need to build this box with their voltage, they will. Internet has made this world smaller. I doubt they would like to choose the same components chosen here, as their needs might be different.

Wotan wrote:By far the most difficult part of a project like this is the cutouts for the receptacles.  How did you do it?  File by hand?  If so, very impressive indeed!  There are specific chassis punches for them but my recollection they are very expensive.  Even still, lining up a pair of them for a duplex would be nontrivial.  This part alone would be worth buying a kit for, if it existed.

I once built a chassis with filed by hand receptacle holes (power supply for Joe Curcio's "Daniel" preamp, if anyone remembers that).  I traced out the cutouts using a standard cover plate, drilled round center holes, and filed.  Didn't look so great.

If you did put out a kit you'd probably want to send the panels to a custom metal fabricator, in which case you'd have to be guaranteed a certain volume of sale so as not to take a loss.

Front Panel Express. They provide their own CAD software as a free download. It took me a while to get the hang of it but once you do it’s pretty easy. You can even change from inches to metric on the fly. I measured my outlet and used the “D-hole” tool. It helps to have the parts you want to mount on hand so you can confirm dimensions. I got all but 2 holes right. My transformer wire holes were off by 1/4”. Thankfully, they still fit. Still not sure how I messed that up but it’s a good reminder to constantly check your measurements before pulling the trigger on a $100 plate.

Another cool feature is you can get a price quote and price breakdown at any time during your design. It’s just a button on the app. I’ve made numerous prototype designs for power strips and tube amp plates. They have a tool for boxes as well but they get pricy real quick and have limited dimension options. The anodized finish is really nice, fingerprint proof, and fairly scratch resistant.

I’m not affiliated with them. Just a customer.