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The Dynaco Tube Audio Forum

Dedicated to the restoration and preservation of all original Dynaco tube audio equipment - Customer support for Tubes4hifi VTA tube amp and preamp kits and all Dynakitparts.com products


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    Dynaco MK VI restorations

    WLT
    WLT


    Posts : 186
    Join date : 2013-07-13
    Location : Rochester NY

    Dynaco MK VI restorations Empty Dynaco MK VI restorations

    Post by WLT Thu Dec 24, 2020 11:34 am

    With this restoration I now have completed them for all of my Dynaco power amps. The MK VIs are the most complex and difficult of the family to do. From earlier posts you will see I keep my Dynaco amp restorations as close to stock as as possible. For most of the amps that is not hard as all the needed parts are available with a large selection of parts and vendors to choose from. The MK VIs do not have that type of support. The difficulties in order are 1) the 8417 tubes are no longer manufactured and finding two NOS quad matched sets is almost impossible and would be very expensive. 2) the 50 and 100 uF at 300 volts power supply caps with the same shape and mounting as the original were not available. All other parts were not a problem to source.

    When purchased the previous owners had converted these amps to 6550 in lieu of the 8417. I had to determine how they made the conversion but felt I needed to stick with the 6550/KT88 family for a number of reasons. Tube availability primarily and the ability to try the KT77/EL34 family without further parts swapping. The front end circuit is the familiar Dynaco one with a few minor enhancements. Much is written about the need for more drive voltage from the front end after you make this conversion. I now feel this is not an issue with the traditional Dynaco front end circuit. More on this area in a different post.

    After much looking I gave up on the power supply caps in the original arrangement and evaluated doing them another way. Still keeping the same ratings but knowing they would have to mount differently. I settled on disconnecting all original caps but leaving them in place. Then mounting two terminal strips underneath and using the mounting holes/screws from the original caps. Purchasing axial lead caps of the same uF but slightly higher voltage gave me the same power supply capability but are now properly mounted, easily replaced in the future and work well.

    Next up was the bias supply. When converted a previous tech had done a pretty good job of selecting resistors R104 and R102 so the adjustment pot was able to set the 6550 in their desired range. The values however put a different load on the power transformer than all the earlier amps. Dynaco used a little over 2 mA of load (on average) for the bias circuit in all their fixed bias amps. I used that value and set the center of adjustment pot for about -60VDC. That gave me new values of R102 and R104. Final test result were right on. It will not only adjust for the 6550s but the KT77/EL34 family as well.

    Two items I was not expecting but were able to resolve. One is on the circuit board you will find the global feedback resistor is labeled R13. However on the component values page there is no listing for R13!! It took a bit of investigating to determine and verify it should be a 3000 ohm resistor. Mine were two watt so I replaced them with those ratings. Another issue was resistor R101. The 240,000 ohm did not jump out as problem but the 1 watt rating was questionable.  A simple calc and I feel this is underrated. It will just work but most electrical designers would opt for more wattage derating. Use a 2 watt (or higher) for good long term results. Not as big a deal as the R13 omission but still not what I would have expected from Dynaco.

    The amps needed a good cleaning but the metal work did not need anything else done. Tube sockets were cleaned and tighten as needed. Good quality caps and carbon film resistors now on the circuit board. You have to have three hands at times to reach all the mounting screws and nuts with the way they mounted parts in this amp. It could have been a lot simpler but it is what it is. I could have rewired and made that look nicer but decided it was not worth it. The rest went well and they sound and work great.

    Pictures below are the top view without the cover which looks the same before and after. Then three demo and rebuild photos of the underneath. Final two of the completed amp. Both amps are almost identical so no need for more photos of the other one.

    Dynaco MK VI restorations S-l16010

    Dynaco MK VI restorations Img_2910
    WLT
    WLT


    Posts : 186
    Join date : 2013-07-13
    Location : Rochester NY

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    Post by WLT Thu Dec 24, 2020 11:38 am

    more photos

    Dynaco MK VI restorations Img_2210
    Dynaco MK VI restorations Img_2423
    Dynaco MK VI restorations Img_2424

    Dynaco MK VI restorations Img_2510

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    MechEngVic
    MechEngVic


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    Post by MechEngVic Thu Jan 07, 2021 2:15 am

    Very nice! Now post us pics of the whole collection!
    WLT
    WLT


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    Post by WLT Thu Jan 07, 2021 11:20 am

    I have already put the full collection pictures together and posted them here in the photos section. Either follow down thru the “Author” list to each of my posts or click on
    https://dynacotubeaudio.forumotion.com/t3903-vintage-dyna-tube-amp-collection-complete

    For more details of the restoration for some of the collection see my other posts or click on each of the following
    https://dynacotubeaudio.forumotion.com/t3805-early-mk-ii-rebuild
    https://dynacotubeaudio.forumotion.com/t4010-dynaco-mk-ivs-rebuild
    https://dynacotubeaudio.forumotion.com/t3641-kiwame-rebuild-of-my-mk-iiis

    I would have to look thru my photos to find the ST 35, SCA 35 and ST70 restoration details. They were similar to the MK II rebuilds with carbon composition resistors retained (and sometimes replaced) if they meet tight specs and all new caps through out. They all have different make/model coupling caps as I like to try different ones and evaluate them. That does make a difference.

    MechEngVic likes this post

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    Soulimani


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    Post by Soulimani Tue Mar 29, 2022 10:12 am

    Bonjour je suis nouveau sur ce forum j ai aquis un bloc mono dynaco mk 6 mon but et de convertir les 8417 en kt88 chose réalisé par plusieurs audiophile faute de rareté des tubes 8417 j aimerais bien connaître les composants à changer ainsi que leurs valeurs si vous pouvez m aider.cordialement soulimani
    WLT
    WLT


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    Dynaco MK VI restorations Empty MK VI - KT88

    Post by WLT Tue Mar 29, 2022 3:48 pm

    Dans l'écriture que j'ai faite, je devrais expliquer tout le travail de restauration que j'ai fait. Si vous ne prévoyez pas de remplacer toutes les résistances et tous les condensateurs, vous ne recherchez que ce qui est nécessaire pour que les KT88 fonctionnent à la place des 8417. C'est très simple. Changez uniquement les résistances R102 et R104 dans le circuit de polarisation. R102 doit être un 22K et R104 doit être un 5.6K.

    If you prefer this in English let me know.
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    Soulimani


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    Post by Soulimani Sun Apr 10, 2022 8:09 pm

    Bonjour j ai effectivement changé les deux résistances 102et 104 pour conversation en kt88 le résultat est correcte après vérification de quelques résistances j ai constaté qu’il n ont plus les valeurs d après le manuel donc je compte améliorer l ensemble avec changement de tous les résistances et condensateur veuillez bien les valeurs en watt ainsi que le le pourcentage que vous avez installé dans votre restauration cordialement.Soulimani
    WLT
    WLT


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    Post by WLT Mon Apr 11, 2022 10:56 am

    Les deux dernières photos de mon post original sont de la restauration terminée. Vous verrez tous les nouveaux condensateurs (caps) et résistances partout. Fortement recommandé que tous (100%) soient remplacés. Pour les résistances, j'ai utilisé un film de carbone de 2 watts. Il y avait quelques 3 watts mais pas nécessaires. Ils devraient bien s'adapter. Les bouchons de rétroaction de petite valeur sont en polystyrène. La grille de dérivation de l'écran est un papier dans l'huile et les capuchons de couplage sont Obbligato Gold MKP. Les deux derniers types peuvent être tout ce que vous préférez. L'alimentation et les capuchons de polarisation sont axiaux mais ont la même valeur uF que l'original. Mesurez les capuchons d'accouplement pour la taille et l'espacement des fils car ils sont limités. Un ensemble que j'ai essayé était trop long. J'ai dû installer des entretoises de support plus longues car les capuchons Obbligato avaient un diamètre trop grand.

    Une autre déviation devient importante. Les nouveaux capuchons d'alimentation axiaux ont une ESR très faible. Selon Dave Gillespie, les résistances de grille de l'écran du tube de sortie doivent être de 100 ohms. Dynaco a spécifié 22 ohms pour les résistances de grille de plaque et d'écran. J'ai laissé les résistances de plaque de 22 ohms mais j'ai utilisé 100 ohms pour les résistances de grille d'écran après avoir eu deux pannes de tube de sortie. Faites une recherche pour son travail sur ce sujet. Je n'aime pas m'écarter des conceptions originales, mais les capuchons ESR inférieurs n'étaient pas utilisés en 1976 lorsque Dynaco a mis l'ampli en production.

    Bill T
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    Soulimani


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    Post by Soulimani Tue Apr 12, 2022 9:32 pm

    Bonjour je suis très reconnaissant pour l intérêt que vous m avez consacré je vous remercie encore une fois cordialement Soulimani( j habite au Maroc)
    WLT
    WLT


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    Post by WLT Thu Apr 14, 2022 9:00 am

    Your welcome. Post your final results.
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    Soulimani


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    Post by Soulimani Fri Apr 15, 2022 8:29 pm

    J ai lu sur d autres forum la nécessité de changer r11 et r12 de 47k à 39k votre avis cordialement Soulimani
    WLT
    WLT


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    Post by WLT Sat Apr 16, 2022 10:27 am

    Si vous conservez les lampes 8417 d'origine, ce commutateur peut être utile. Le circuit de grille pour ces tubes est délicat et si cette résistance est trop grande, cela peut provoquer une instabilité. Pour les conversions de tubes EL34/6550/KT88, ce n'est pas un problème. Je ne vois pas la nécessité de modifier les valeurs de stock 47K. Mes amplis avec des 6550 et les résistances 47K sont très stables.
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    maddmaxxdrummer


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    Post by maddmaxxdrummer Sun Jan 08, 2023 8:02 pm

    Hi,
    I’m in the process of restoring a pair of Dynaco MKVI.

    I was wondering, do I have to remove the faceplate to gain access to the inside ?

    Thx
    WLT
    WLT


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    Post by WLT Sun Jan 08, 2023 9:14 pm

    Oh yes. and be very careful about how you support the amp. You must provide support under the transformers with out putting any pressure on the front faceplacte. I used a short 2x4 as it has enough depth. Othersie the weight of the amp will break the fuse holder and may damage the on/off switch. It is not very stable unless you remove the output tubes first and then put another support under the back of the amp. i used an empty shipping box for this last effort.

    Once suported the rest is just taking all the screws out. i have many other items i could discuss with you about it, PM if you want more info. Two major items concern the power supply caps and if you are using the 8417 (or converting to 6550 or EL34).
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    maddmaxxdrummer


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    Post by maddmaxxdrummer Sun Jan 08, 2023 10:47 pm

    Hi, thx.
    They were already converted to EL34 by the previous owner. And because of the conversion he said the front panel meter is not accurate when biasing (because this was for 8417 tubes) so he installed a bias resistor on the sockets to measure voltage across to set bias with multi meter.

    I have a quad bias probe that gives me mA reading. I will use it to bias once it’s all done. So that bias resistors he installed, should they be removed ? Or can I use my bias probe with them installed ?

    The PSU caps need to be changed. Can’t find those values in cans so I will go with caps inside on terminal strips.. I’ll leave the capacitor cans on the outside for the look. I found some radial United Chemicon 10000hrs at 105 on digeykey.

    I want to install separate bias pots. And would be great if there were a way to get the front meter to be accurate to bias for EL34 now.

    Ok but first just need to get into the inside to do caps.

    Any info would be appreciated.


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