feet for my Dynaco Mark III

I am looking for rubber replacement feet for my Dynaco Mark IIIs. I bought some for my PAS3 but now i can't remember where I got them. They looks like they would be the same feet

Thanks

Hi -- For what it is worth ....

The replacement rubber feet for a Stock PAS attach to the PAS's flat bottom with a screw and nut since holes were provided for each of the screws. Stock Mark III's have a flat bottom with 4 raised bumps (one in each corner) and have no screw holes, so there is no way to attach PAS Feet to the Mark III, unless you drill screw holes???!!!

As an alternative, at some DIY forum, I saw where someone created stand-off or isolation feet for the Mark III out of 2" or 2 & 1/2" diameter Closet Rods cut into 1 & 1/2" sections. The sections were separated by glued-on cork or rubber. A 3/4" hole was countersunk in 4 of the sections where each section fit over the raised bump. Two joined sections would get the Amp about 3" off the ground and allow for air flow. You can also use square sections of hardwood (red oak or walnut, etc) and achieve the same result.

stewdan wrote:Hi -- For what it is worth ....

The replacement rubber feet for a Stock PAS attach to the PAS's flat bottom with a screw and nut since holes were provided for each of the screws. Stock Mark III's have a flat bottom with 4 raised bumps (one in each corner) and have no screw holes, so there is no way to attach PAS Feet to the Mark III, unless you drill screw holes???!!!

As an alternative, at some DIY forum, I saw where someone created stand-off or isolation feet for the Mark III out of 2" or 2 & 1/2" diameter Closet Rods cut into 1 & 1/2" sections. The sections were separated by glued-on cork or rubber. A 3/4" hole was countersunk in 4 of the sections where each section fit over the raised bump. Two joined sections would get the Amp about 3" off the ground and allow for air flow. You can also use square sections of hardwood (red oak or walnut, etc) and achieve the same result.

Yep you are right they are raised bumps. Someone has already drilled the holes so i might be able to attach more conventional type rubber feet, but I like your idea much better

Thanks

Here's an option that will give you good vibration isolation to boot. Since, IMHO, 1/2" would be plenty of clearance for a good convection cooling air flow, providing 1" would certainly be more than sufficient. Three of these cones per MK-III would nicely do the trick.

http://www.tubesandmore.com/products/S-VIBRACONE

Best Regards,
Charlie

Luddite wrote:Here's an option that will give you good vibration isolation to boot. Since, IMHO, 1/2" would be plenty of clearance for a good convection cooling air flow, providing 1" would certainly be more than sufficient. Three of these cones per MK-III would nicely do the trick.

http://www.tubesandmore.com/products/S-VIBRACONE

Best Regards,
Charlie

Are those hollow in the middle? they would have to be to accommodate the raised bumps.


For a temporary fix i found some free cork flooring samples at home depot. I cut them in to squares and countersunk a 3/4" in hole in the top . They work great.

Thanks for the idea

Steven0356 wrote:

Are those hollow in the middle? they would have to be to accommodate the raised bumps.


For a temporary fix i found some free cork flooring samples at home depot. I cut them in to squares and countersunk a 3/4" in hole in the top . They work great.

Thanks for the idea

I dont think they are hollow, but I was thinking of them being used with the point up like in the picture. Just set the amp on top of them.

Best Regards,
Charlie