MK III woes...

https://s1303.photobucket.com/user/grizzinca/media/image_zpseb0cae5f.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1#
Greeting everyone. As you can see, I'm slowly making a mess here. All is not lost I hope. Could use some help. Not sure where yellow/green from power tranny goes. As well as red/yellow. If you can see any other miscues feel free to point them out. Confusing but worth it

The red/yellow wire should go to the center (ground) lug and the green/yellow should go where the red/yellow is now. Make sure you have the .02mfd ceramic capacitor to ground and lug 1.

Thanks for the help. Missed the obvious

After all wiring was finished, I followed instructions that came with the driver board from Mr Latino. The voltage at the output tubes quickly went past .70 volts. I cut the power, but nothing said about where to check for the problem. Any help? Thanks

Did the test. Getting negative 1 volt at pin 5 and nothing at pin 6...both tubes read the same.

https://s1303.photobucket.com/user/grizzinca/media/image_zps090e3276.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
I hope this works. I appreciate everyone's help. Might need a night off, take a breather. Thanks again

Placed the capacitors the correct way, managed to get proper voltage at pin 5 & 6. Put the rectifier tube in, couldn't cut the power quick enough as I was checking at the output tubes and the fuse blew. I won't give up till the house burns down!!!! Next?

I'll 2nd Bob's last comment, especially based on your voltage checks at pins 5 and 6, that's not even possible!
you should have the outputs of the PCB wired to pin 6, then thru a 1K to pin 5.  
That's nothing different than an original MK3, like the diagram Bob posted way above.
Also, since you had those two caps (4 total if you've got 2 amps) they probably are bad now, caps don't like reverse voltage!
They should be replaced with new ones.  100uF 100v.   Positive side to edge of PCB, (caps are marked with a Negative stripe).
Also - very important, the yellow-green wire now goes to the striped end of the diode on the PCB, not to the terminal strip.

tubes4hifi wrote:...Positive side to edge of PCB, (caps are marked with a Negative stripe).

Bob Latino wrote:...The two negative poles on each bias cap should face the EDGE of the drive board

??

oh yes, that's correct

Can't tell you how all this helps. Sure appreciate everyone taking the time to look at my post. I plan on taking the weekend to finish and hopefully report success. Thanks again.
Mike

It occurred to me that there were 2 different boards offered. I purchased the octal driver board using 6sn7 tubes. Does this board wire differently than the other board?

[url=grizzinca/media/image_zps42adcf06.jpg.html][/URL]]grizzinca/media/image_zps42adcf06.jpg.html][/URL][/url]. Still having issues. Blew fuse about 10-15 seconds after powering up. Bad quad cap? The instructions that came with the VTA board and the diagram that came with the 2 quad caps seem to contradict each other. Seems I have everything as per all info I find on the forum and instructions received with theatre. Any help would be appreciated.

a few things I can't see clearly in your photo. Where is power supply ground? Is ground connected to the black speaker terminal?
Is ground connected to the PCB? Is the NFB (yellow speaker wire) going to the correct hole in the PCB?
And most importantly, I don't see any speaker wires connected to the speaker terminals
AND THE most important, are any of those speaker terminals touching the chassis? They must NOT touch the chassis!
Normally that speaker board would be mounted on the outside of the chassis to insure that,
but it can be mounted the way you have it if you use a few fiber washers on the outside to insure none of them are touching the chassis.

Making progress. Not blowing fuses anymore. However, following instructions and removing the driver tubes, installing output and rectifier tubes to check voltage from pins 5 and 6 to ground, the 6.8k resistor on the quad cap went up in smoke. Didn't get a chance to check voltage. Help?

obviously there was a short somewhere (like maybe those speaker posts) which caused the fuse to keep blowing and finally for the resistor to give out,
so it will need to be replaced.

Thanks. Back at it.

Made all repairs and fixes I could find. Removed the quad cap and tested it with a mm as per instructions found in the forum. Found the 20 mfd section (circle) to be bad. Could this cause the 6.8k resistor to blow? Also checked all the resistors on the driver board and all checked ok. Resistors on tube sockets were also fine.

Hello all. Been a few days, finally got the mkIII's finished, tested and into my system. Thanks for all your help. I ended up using the best advice of all...step back and start over. I ended up starting COMPLETELY over. Now I seem to have a fairly common mkIII issue. Hum coming through the speakers. From both amps. Other than the trannies and the chassis's, ALL parts are new. Including both quad caps (seems to be the leading culprit) . From what I've read in the forum, sounds like maybe a grounding issue? Will try to get more recent pics uploaded tonight or tomorrow, but in the mean time is there any advice on where to double (triple) check? Again, the hum is in both amps, so I suspect I've made the same mistake in both amps. Thanks