cleaning the pins on your tubes

With New Old Stock tubes there is often oxidation on the pins which can make for a less than perfect contact when inserted into a tube socket.

How do y'all clean the pins on your tubes if you feel they need it?

I use a small emery board (fingernail file) to scrub each pin then follow with Caig Pro Gold.

.

99% iso alcohol, pipe cleaners, and a padded vise ... just drop some alky on the pipe cleaner, thread it between the pins from all possible angles and drag it back and forth lightly. The vise is optional, but hey, long as I got it ...

Easiest cleaning method really is just pulling and reinserting the tube in the socket. This scrubs off any oxidation exactly where the pins and socket make contact.

Have not had to do any cleaning but have looked on "you tube" about pin cleaning and socket cleaning.
Some people have used an EXACTO knife for the pins holding the glass with a microfiber cloth.
Also a dremel tool is very helpful with less effort.

I just squirt a bit of de-oxit into the socket holes and work the tube in and out, as Skizo suggests. That will get rid of 90 percent of the crud. Then a bit of retentioning for the sockets.
For really nasty pins, a nail file or some 5-ought bronze wool will shine 'em right up, too.

Just received this little baby today..$20.78 including shipping...and it works
Tube cleaning detail

bluemeanies wrote:Just received this little baby today..$20.78 including shipping...and it works
Tube cleaning detail

Blue,
Have you got a direct URL to where you bought this thing? I couldn't get there from your posting. Seems like I must have one.

deepee99 wrote:

bluemeanies wrote:Just received this little baby today..$20.78 including shipping...and it works
Tube cleaning detail

Blue,
Have you got a direct URL to where you bought this thing? I couldn't get there from your posting. Seems like I must have one.

Deep..I went to e-bay..just plug in "WEN DREMEL"..there are nicer ones on there than I purchased for close to the same price..$24-$28.00 with a case.
I used the WEN as soon as I opened it. I had purchased some old stock driver tubes from Kently.

bluemeanies wrote:

deepee99 wrote:

bluemeanies wrote:Just received this little baby today..$20.78 including shipping...and it works
Tube cleaning detail

Blue,
Have you got a direct URL to where you bought this thing? I couldn't get there from your posting. Seems like I must have one.

Deep..I went to e-bay..just plug in "WEN DREMEL"..there are nicer ones on there than I purchased for close to the same price..$24-$28.00 with a case.
I used the WEN as soon as I opened it. I had purchased some old stock driver tubes from Kently.

Blue, hope I just ordered the same thing from Amazon. BTW, never buy anything from Kently. It's likely crud I sold to him

"Blue, hope I just ordered the same thing from Amazon. BTW, never buy anything from Kently. It's likely crud I sold to him cheers"

O.K. Deepeedy Doo - what goes around generally comes back to clog your toilet, eventually.

Kentley wrote:"Blue, hope I just ordered the same thing from Amazon. BTW, never buy anything from Kently. It's likely crud I sold to him cheers"

O.K. Deepeedy Doo - what goes around generally comes back to clog your toilet, eventually.

Oh Kentley, don't be so sensitive. I only sell you my best worthless stuff. It's called laying off risk.

It's that face that Kently has which gives the appearance of trustworthiness.
Besides his humor is worth the price of a tube....

Yeah, look at that face. Trust me! Buy a used tube from me. Forget that Isuzu guy....I'm your go-to moron.

You guys crack me up! Might I suggesttaking out a membership on the Crossover network? Our British friends are sure to welcome and embrace your humour.

And don't worry, they don't even hold a grudge about the Boston tea vandalism incident, and subsequent rebellion, as I think they call it.

Tube Nube wrote:You guys crack me up! Might I suggesttaking out a membership on the Crossover network? Our British friends are sure to welcome and embrace your humour.

And don't worry, they don't even hold a grudge about the Boston tea vandalism incident, and subsequent rebellion, as I think they call it.

I'm afraid we've already crossed over -- to the dark side. The upside is watching the water level behind Grand Coulee Dam fall every time I turn on the stereo. Transformers in Wenatchee explode and our own little neighbourhood goes dark for a moment or two.

Question for the resident experts...
I am running my m125's with two Sovtek KT88's and recently change my driver tube in the voltage/amp position with an RCA 12BH7A...right Kently?
I also changed my rectifier from the WEBER WZ68 SS to the Genalex GZ34...BTW never had a problem with the Weber.
The two output tubes do a fine job in the handling of my B&W 803 diamonds but I believe the Genalex would not be sufficient enough if I wanted to go with 4output tubes.
Here is guestion...is there a glass rectifier tube that could handle 4output tubes in the m125's?
I think I am asking a rhetorical question but wanted to post this question just the same.
Also is the Mullard GZ34 the one I should be looking at....?
If the Mullard is the ticket...it's at a heavy cost...$150.00per..that's $300.00 for a pair and I like to have a spare so I would be looking at $450.00...I can't afford to go in that direction.
This is not something I am doing in the immediate future b/c of the cost factor.
The power issue is not a factor, but I am curious as to what change in sound 4output tubes would have on my system and ridiculious as it might sound those additional tubes glowing in a low level lit room....well what can I say.

Thanks anyone..

Blue,
If you can get your hands on a pair of Mullard GZ-33s they will handle even 4 KT-120s with no problems, they're tall and cool-looking and will last forever, but they are scarce and spendy, and then keep the Webers for backup.
Another option would be to have MontanaWay do a mod on your M-125s which runs two GZ-34 type rectifiers in parallel on each amp. Dunno if he's still doing that mod but it sure works well in mine. The Genalex GZ-34s in tandem are just loafing, even with four big output tubes.
There are also other solid-state rectifying options that don't use the Webers -- Holger and Don Sachs swear by solid-state rectification -- but I've not been persuaded enough and don't have the funds, either.
The Webers get a bad rap, I think unfairly, when used in the M-125s. Albeit they're solid state, they're a consumable like any other tube and sit right amongst the iron and the back output tubes so tend to get cooked, but the price is right. TMadden on this forum has made some improvements to the Webers allowing them to run cooler, and replaces the thyristor with a beefier one. You might talk to him. I've got a couple he modded and you can try if you'll send 'em back.
I often run just a pair of KT-88s (Gold Lions) in the front holes during the summer. But yeah, four output tubes looks twice as cool as two tubes. Whether doubling-up on the power tubes is much help to high-efficiency speakers, I don't know. I needed all four to run my old Maggies and Vandersteens, but the Tylers at 90 dB/watt do fine with just a pair.

Another option is to simply use a 5V3A tube. It can easily handle the current. I discovered that a GZ37 has about the same voltage drop in my ST70 as a 5U4GB. The 5V3A will have a slightly lower voltage drop than the 5U4 at the normal idle currents as it is rated at greater than 350mA. Heater current is 3A.

The only drawback is that it doesn't give you the B+ delay. If you have the delay relay then you are good. They are fairly cheap on Ebay.

Ive got a few more hundred hours on the same 5V3A in my ST120. All is well. No bias adjustments since December. Perhaps someone knows when the direct heated cathode starts conducting....

deepee99 wrote:Blue,
If you can get your hands on a pair of Mullard GZ-33s they will handle even 4 KT-120s with no problems, they're tall and cool-looking and will last forever, but they are scarce and spendy, and then keep the Webers for backup.
Another option would be to have MontanaWay do a mod on your M-125s which runs two GZ-34 type rectifiers in parallel on each amp. Dunno if he's still doing that mod but it sure works well in mine. The Genalex GZ-34s in tandem are just loafing, even with four big output tubes.
There are also other solid-state rectifying options that don't use the Webers -- Holger and Don Sachs swear by solid-state rectification -- but I've not been persuaded enough and don't have the funds, either.
The Webers get a bad rap, I think unfairly, when used in the M-125s. Albeit they're solid state, they're a consumable like any other tube and sit right amongst the iron and the back output tubes so tend to get cooked, but the price is right. TMadden on this forum has made some improvements to the Webers allowing them to run cooler, and replaces the thyristor with a beefier one. You might talk to him. I've got a couple he modded and you can try if you'll send 'em back.
I often run just a pair of KT-88s (Gold Lions) in the front holes during the summer. But yeah, four output tubes looks twice as cool as two tubes. Whether doubling-up on the power tubes is much help to high-efficiency speakers, I don't know. I needed all four to run my old Maggies and Vandersteens, but the Tylers at 90 dB/watt do fine with just a pair.

Glad I snatched a pair of GZ33.....

deepee99 wrote:Blue,
If you can get your hands on a pair of Mullard GZ-33s they will handle even 4 KT-120s with no problems, they're tall and cool-looking and will last forever, but they are scarce and spendy, and then keep the Webers for backup.
Another option would be to have MontanaWay do a mod on your M-125s which runs two GZ-34 type rectifiers in parallel on each amp. Dunno if he's still doing that mod but it sure works well in mine. The Genalex GZ-34s in tandem are just loafing, even with four big output tubes.
There are also other solid-state rectifying options that don't use the Webers -- Holger and Don Sachs swear by solid-state rectification -- but I've not been persuaded enough and don't have the funds, either.
The Webers get a bad rap, I think unfairly, when used in the M-125s. Albeit they're solid state, they're a consumable like any other tube and sit right amongst the iron and the back output tubes so tend to get cooked, but the price is right. TMadden on this forum has made some improvements to the Webers allowing them to run cooler, and replaces the thyristor with a beefier one. You might talk to him. I've got a couple he modded and you can try if you'll send 'em back.
I often run just a pair of KT-88s (Gold Lions) in the front holes during the summer. But yeah, four output tubes looks twice as cool as two tubes. Whether doubling-up on the power tubes is much help to high-efficiency speakers, I don't know. I needed all four to run my old Maggies and Vandersteens, but the Tylers at 90 dB/watt do fine with just a pair.

Thanks deepee for the input and offer. Two KT88's work well with the 803diamonds @90db. The 88's don't break a sweat. I just put in a bid on e-bay for two new Mullards GZ33's. Four days left in the bid. I am not going crazy on these tubes. They are listed from GB. The bid thus far is $60.00+shipping and we already are at $80.00+. I know they are expensive at $150.00 each from what I have seen so I am not complaining but at this time I not going near that high a price. At least not at this time.

Yeah, the GZ-33 Mullards are the best of the best. They just loaf in a fully stuffed M-125, though the heater current pull is a bit near the high edge of the envelope of the transformer's tap.
These guys:
http://www.nosvacuumtubes.net/product/mullard-gz33/
appear to have them in stock at $150 per tube. You won't need a spare.
Same outfit also carries the old Bendix rectifiers - the Bendix 5852 is a drop-in replacement for the 6X5 rectifier used in the SP-14. Another tube that will out-live your grand kids.
A caveat: I've not done business with them so can't speak to their integrity, and the Bendix is a bit over-priced at $85. I think Tube Despot carries them for $75.

GreggW wrote:Ive got a few more hundred hours on the same 5V3A in my ST120. All is well. No bias adjustments since December. Perhaps someone knows when the direct heated cathode starts conducting....

Good to hear Gregg! The cathode starts conducting as soon as it starts glowing...which is fairly quickly.

Hi guys...still waiting for the Mullards!
They are coming from the UK. After I won the bid and PAID I was told the guy was going on holiday and would not be able to ship until the 16th...Brits...
Ya gotta love 'em.
So I am trying to be patient.
Maybe it's better this way since this week I am overloaded with family commitments.
Next week will be a different story.