Tube rectifiers

Hey, I've only had one tube fail and that was after a power blip.
Looked around and found a non-clamping GFCI plug and hasn't happened again.
I've tried quite a few tubes from Europe, the US and China.
Currently using a Chinese tube by Langrex of GB.
Works like a charm. For what this is worth.

Mike

Better order spare 5AR4s after that post. Mr. Murphy is predicting an onslaught of failed rectifiers in your future :-)

I have had good results with SOVTEK 5AR4. I attribute some of this to the series 1n4007 that many of us have inserted ahead of the 5AR4/GZ-34--the so-called "yellow sheet" modification. I also attribute it to keeping the load on my rectifiers on the light side. I suppose that's why my MkIIIs have such weak bass  

Yellow sheet rectifier mod

j beede wrote:Better order spare 5AR4s after that post. Mr. Murphy is predicting an onslaught of failed rectifiers in your future :-)

I have had good results with SOVTEK 5AR4. I attribute some of this to the series 1n4007 that many of us have inserted ahead of the 5AR4/GZ-34--the so-called "yellow sheet" modification. I also attribute it to keeping the load on my rectifiers on the light side. I suppose that's why my MkIIIs have such weak bass  

I have enough to last for years.

I have also tried the Chinese/Shuguang 5AR4 from Langrex of the UK. It sounded real good, until it failed after just 3 months.
As far as reliability, I have had the best luck with the Weber WZ68. However, I prefer the sound of tube rectification in my Latino VTA-70. An actual vacuum tube in that position seems to provide better flow and tactile presence to the music. Solid-state rectifiers sound more mechanical to my ears. It's a close call, however; most people will go with reliability.

For the last week, I've been using a Mullard GZ33, purchased from Upscale Audio. It sounds good, but hasn't quite bowled me over. I expected more for $100. The Shuggie actually sounded the best of all the tube rectifiers I've tried: Genalex U77, JJ 5AR4, Sovtek, NOS GE 5U4G. The Sovtek also failed after a couple months.

My advice, put your money into the center tube of the VTA board, then the power tubes, then the driver tubes, lastly the rectifier.