PeterCapo wrote:Wonder if efforts to straighten the pins would be more successful if they were desoldered first.
Seems like you'd need some kind of thin-walled but strong metal tube to slide over the pin and then straighten it.
The typical octal pin is either a rolled piece of flat tin-plated copper or bronze, or a plated bronze or copper tube that is swaged to a rounded, very slightly open point. The tube wires are inserted, with solder, then the pins are heated. In any case, the tube (pin) is very nearly full of solder.
Two things: That the pin is more a solid than a hollow tube renders some protection against kinking when bent. And, if there is a bend, it will be where there is the least amount of solder inside.
In my experience, octals tend to splay at the base. Look at this picture (not mine): https://audiodestrukt.files.wordpress.com/2012/02/broken-glass.jpg?w=640&h=480
This shows you how those pins are inserted into the Bakelite/plastic base.
There is considerable value in grasping the entire pin when attempting to straighten - and/or remove a bend in the tube itself. So:https://ijsmiami.com/product/plier-12-roundhollow-nose-5130mm-value/
This is an off-the-shelf modern tool for the job, for those of you not able to frequent flea markets and garage sales in rural areas. German, and Box-Joint.
But the final alignment should be done in an actual socket - something with some forgiveness, so not a ceramic socket until the pins are really straight. The, fine.
Tips and Tricks:
a) When re-soldering pins (and the wires inside), work with the tube restrained and on its side, not upside down. There is a potential when upside-down to melt solder onto the tube base, which could cause invisible shorts, or crack the base from thermal shock.
b) Clean the iron tip, heat about mid-way on the pin, and add solder from the bottom
c) Give everything plenty of time to cool before putting any stress on the pins.
d) DO NOT use superglue anywhere near a tube, especially to re-secure it to the base. The stuff is so hard that it will not expand and contract as do the base and the glass..... *CRACK*! Electronics RTV silicone is a good material for this purpose.
e) DO NOT use conventional RTV silicone anywhere near electronics. Acetic Acid is no good for copper or board traces. https://www.americansealantsinc.com/388-electronic-grade-silicone/