This is what I've tentatively settled on, unless anyone has reason to object. The spacing is actually the same or better than stock chassis. The middle output will actually have more separation than a stock chassis with an aftermarket driver board. The outputs are almost exactly what you find on stock chassis, except, of course, that I've moved the other output tube to the front, where the can cap would have been. You could say that by doing it this way, the rectifier and outer output actually get more air for cooling. The only variation is that the rectifier is moved over about 1 inch from where it is on a stock chassis. Also, yes, I always do a 'dry-fit' before I start cutting or drilling anything. So once I punch the other holes, I can do a full dry-fit and use old pieces of junk wire to plan the routing. And thanks for the heads up on the tube sockets. I know that there is considerable overhang, so I'll be sure and choose the correct fasteners.