Help on Mods original Dynaco ST-70 with VTA board/PAS3X

Just aquired

Dynaco ST70 with VTA board
Dynaco Pas3X

Obviously Mods have been made.
What do you see??
What do they need??
Thanks for input.

Must be wrong Forum to request feedback
Thanks

The question is vague.
Yes, the devices has been altered, a st70 has added tubed4hifi board, a pas with
randomly changed caps.
But all this is best visible if you compare with the manual(s)

[quote="peterh"]The question is vague.
Yes, the devices has been altered, a st70 has added tubed4hifi board, a pas with
randomly changed caps.

Duh, no kidding.
Your help is "Vague" Basically "Look it up"

Since this is a "Dynaco" site, I didn't think I had to spell it out.  
So I'll try to answer my vague inquiry.
I see a

ST70 w/VTA kit build
VTA Kit, Bob Latino or DynaKit Parts ? or other.
Bias test points on board ? Read 180 ?
proper transformer? Acceptable tubes ?
Needs to address surface pitting. how ?
Diodes out of takeoff socket, just power on lights ?
Volume control. Sonically good ?
Wiring birds nest acceptible?
Heat has anybody added heat sinks ?
Suggestions.

PAS3X Factory build
1 old, 1 new Board ?
"randomly changed caps" Known Mod ??
Updated volume control, "random" ??
Updated power supply, OK ? or update and eliminate rec tube and cap ?
Sonic controls still in circuit, OK, or eliminate, is centering really "Flat" ??
Cluster F tubes, suggestions ?
Is cover required for shielding, or can I let the breath ?
Suggestions

Sorry about "vague" inquiry. Just trying to start a conversation.
Thought I could get at least a "Nice" rig.

Pigboat,
sorry if you was offended, it was not intentional.

As you now have some questions i can answer some.
As for PAS ( it is a pas3X by the way)
Q. "Sonic controls still in circuit, OK, or eliminate, is centering really "Flat" ??"
No need to modify, if tonecontrol pots are centered the tonecontrol is out of the circuit.
Q. "Is cover required for shielding, or can I let the breath ?"
No it will hum if you remove cover. Besides it consumes 16w so there is no need for breathing.
Q. "Updated power supply, OK ? or update and eliminate rec tube and cap ?"
No if it does not hum it's ok. Sometime in the future you could install i power supply board
that replaces the B+ cancap and the filament caps and rectifiers ( those are already replaced)
One could eliminate 12x4 , some power boards have un4007 diodes for that purpose, but sonically
is no difference.

As for the st70 i have no comments

.

The most important mod is to remove the lock washer that fell on the line stage board in the PAS before it shorts something out

It appears that the selenium rectifiers are still in the bias supply of the PAS 3X.  Those should be replaced with diodes.  Should be instructions on here in other posts or, on Audiokarma.  The wonder caps on the two big caps under the green selenium rectifiers are apparently being used as bypass caps.  I don't think those are necessary.  Look at the date code on the two big caps and if they are over 15 years old, replace them.  i use Sprague Atom caps (called/branded "Vishay" now?).  The yellow caps running to the two tone controls are ok and a recommended mod.  

As far as the Stereo 70 goes, if it is biasing correctly, I'd be tempted to leave it alone.  You might want to check the voltages on the output tubes for proper values as noted on the Stereo 70 assembly manual (which is available free from numerous sources including hiengine.com).  I can't see where diodes have replaced the selenium rectifier but perhaps it is simply hidden in the pic.  I assume the LED's sticking out of the front octal sockets are for setting the bias.  Perhaps someone else can chime in here regarding proper settings.  By the way, your comment was kinda snarky when you finally added all the questions you wanted answered.  You should have asked those up front.  Just sayin".

Rectifier tube could be a 5V3A or 5V3. If a 5V3, those draw 3.8 amps filament current. The 5V3A draws 3 amps, which the transformer should handle with no issue. 5V3As are almost always on eBay for $10-20. Somewhere on the forum is a rectifier comparison chart.

"By the way, your comment was kinda snarky when you finally added all the questions you wanted answered.  You should have asked those up front.  Just sayin".[/quote]

Thanks for pointing out what you saw.

My question, By the way, was "what do you see" Not what do I see. Just sayin.