Auto Bias board for VTA ST120 - do the LEDs really need to be visible

Hi all. I’m thinking of getting the auto bias board for my ST120. Before I do, I have a minor concern. The LEDs on the auto bias board will not be visible after the cover goes on. I know there are instructions to relocate them, but I actually don’t want to see the LEDs if I don’t have to. I like my amp as it is now, where the only glow comes from the tubes. LED light will ruin my vibe! Plus I’m really not confident working with SMD components.
So I’m wondering, can I get away with just leaving the LEDs buried inside?
How important is it to see them? After the initial calibration and set up, is it necessary to be able to see the LEDs?

Hello Chet,
You have the easiest problem to resolve. Simply do not relocate the LEDs when you install the auto-bias board. It will work just fine as it was originally designed with the lights inside the case. You will need to get in the habit to always wait 30 seconds to a minute before you start playing any music after you turn on your amp - to allow everything to properly warm up. There are others that have the same thought as you on this topic. They like the idea of turn on the amp and just forget about it. Let the board take care of the rest. Good luck with your installation.

Mike...

Great tech, well worth the investment. I considered relocating them but was afraid of damaging the boards in the process. In any event they are bright enough that I am able to determine their status simply by sighting along a small gap in the case. On startup a soft red glow appears within a second or two, and fades to black after about 20 seconds. Then blue fades in after about 40-45 seconds. I cant confirm status sitting across the room obviously, but that doesn't concern me.

My ST120 had a rough start with the AB but it's been fine for close to 2 years. It was wired wrong (not by me). Pavel (the maker) and Holger (Erhard) got me sorted out. I still check bias every once in a while and it hasn't budged since the install. If you do it, get taller standoffs and/or heat shrink the caps if they're the optional PIOs.

I too wanted the LEDs visible but not intruding, so much so that I got the board w/o the blue SMDs and it was drilled for conventional LEDs. The prospect of even more wires made me drop my plans. My board has it's LEDs in the designated original location. They're just not SMDs. I can't see them in operation but did when I had to fix the wiring. I guess if a tube doesn't light or red-plates, that'll be my LED.