I enjoy seeing the pictures others share so I thought I should send this one along. When it came to me at a swap meet it had been in a flood and then a barn.
3 posters
PAS3 Pictures
tubedoc- Posts : 13
Join date : 2015-11-30
I enjoy seeing the pictures others share so I thought I should send this one along. When it came to me at a swap meet it had been in a flood and then a barn.
10-E-C, Dale Stevens, knotscott, Ric27 and ehgoats like this post
Ric27- Posts : 1
Join date : 2022-02-09
That is beautiful!
How about some before fotos
How about some before fotos
tubedoc- Posts : 13
Join date : 2015-11-30
There are no before Pix, Sorry.
It was a great find because there were two PAS-3s, two ST-70s, and an Eico HF-81 in the pile.
The PAS3 in the photos I shared was so corroded I had to find a replacement bottom for it. There was rust and debris up about 1/3 of the way on all the vertical surfaces. Amazingly, the phono board was essentially intact and cleaned up pretty well.
I'm glad you enjoyed the pix.
It was a great find because there were two PAS-3s, two ST-70s, and an Eico HF-81 in the pile.
The PAS3 in the photos I shared was so corroded I had to find a replacement bottom for it. There was rust and debris up about 1/3 of the way on all the vertical surfaces. Amazingly, the phono board was essentially intact and cleaned up pretty well.
I'm glad you enjoyed the pix.
ehgoats- Posts : 1
Join date : 2024-10-05
Very nice! I'm in the process of a similar rebuild and will be using that same faceplate. I'm struggling to figure out removal of the stereo/mono blend control, fixing the unit as stereo, and not mess up the balance control. How did you do wire it with the balance and volume and skip blend?
tubedoc- Posts : 13
Join date : 2015-11-30
I'm sorry not to have replied before.
I have been out of the country teaching and that takes up pretty much all my time and energy while I am away.
If I understand you right, you want to wire the preamp without the tone controls and without the blend switch using a faceplate similar to the one I used.
If you look at the picture showing the preamp from the top, you can see the wires from the selector switch going directly to the 750K balance pot.
The signal then goes to the 250K volume pot and then to the grid of the 1st preamp tube.
I am using an aftermarket preamp board where the tone controls have already been removed.
If you are rebuilding the stock board, you can remove the coupling cap and following circuitry including the tone control pots between the plate of the 1st section of the 12AX7 and the grid of the following 2nd section. Use a high quality 0.05uf cap to reconnect the plate of the 1st section of the 12AX7 to the grid of the following section. Use a 1M high quality resistor to connect the grid of section 2 to ground.
You can then remove the circuitry between the second half of the amplifier and the output jacks.
You should then use a good quality 0.22uf cap to connect from the plate of the second section of the 12AX7 to audio out. Use shielded cable where practical for your connections as seen in the pix above.
I hope this helps you get started.
R
I have been out of the country teaching and that takes up pretty much all my time and energy while I am away.
If I understand you right, you want to wire the preamp without the tone controls and without the blend switch using a faceplate similar to the one I used.
If you look at the picture showing the preamp from the top, you can see the wires from the selector switch going directly to the 750K balance pot.
The signal then goes to the 250K volume pot and then to the grid of the 1st preamp tube.
I am using an aftermarket preamp board where the tone controls have already been removed.
If you are rebuilding the stock board, you can remove the coupling cap and following circuitry including the tone control pots between the plate of the 1st section of the 12AX7 and the grid of the following 2nd section. Use a high quality 0.05uf cap to reconnect the plate of the 1st section of the 12AX7 to the grid of the following section. Use a 1M high quality resistor to connect the grid of section 2 to ground.
You can then remove the circuitry between the second half of the amplifier and the output jacks.
You should then use a good quality 0.22uf cap to connect from the plate of the second section of the 12AX7 to audio out. Use shielded cable where practical for your connections as seen in the pix above.
I hope this helps you get started.
R
tubedoc- Posts : 13
Join date : 2015-11-30
I'm sorry not to have replied before.
I have been out of the country teaching and that takes up pretty much all my time and energy while I am away.
If I understand you right, you want to wire the preamp without the tone controls and without the blend switch using a faceplate similar to the one I used.
If you look at the picture showing the preamp from the top, you can see the wires from the selector switch going directly to the 750K balance pot.
The signal then goes to the 250K volume pot and then to the grid of the 1st preamp tube.
I am using an aftermarket preamp board where the tone controls have already been removed.
If you are rebuilding the stock board, you can remove the coupling cap and following circuitry including the tone control pots between the plate of the 1st section of the 12AX7 and the grid of the following 2nd section. Use a high quality 0.05uf cap to reconnect the plate of the 1st section of the 12AX7 to the grid of the following section. Use a 1M high quality resistor to connect the grid of section 2 to ground.
You can then remove the circuitry between the second half of the amplifier and the output jacks.
You should then use a good quality 0.22uf cap to connect from the plate of the second section of the 12AX7 to audio out. Use shielded cable where practical for your connections as seen in the pix above.
I hope this helps you get started.
R
I have been out of the country teaching and that takes up pretty much all my time and energy while I am away.
If I understand you right, you want to wire the preamp without the tone controls and without the blend switch using a faceplate similar to the one I used.
If you look at the picture showing the preamp from the top, you can see the wires from the selector switch going directly to the 750K balance pot.
The signal then goes to the 250K volume pot and then to the grid of the 1st preamp tube.
I am using an aftermarket preamp board where the tone controls have already been removed.
If you are rebuilding the stock board, you can remove the coupling cap and following circuitry including the tone control pots between the plate of the 1st section of the 12AX7 and the grid of the following 2nd section. Use a high quality 0.05uf cap to reconnect the plate of the 1st section of the 12AX7 to the grid of the following section. Use a 1M high quality resistor to connect the grid of section 2 to ground.
You can then remove the circuitry between the second half of the amplifier and the output jacks.
You should then use a good quality 0.22uf cap to connect from the plate of the second section of the 12AX7 to audio out. Use shielded cable where practical for your connections as seen in the pix above.
I hope this helps you get started.
R