Weber WZ68 now NOT recommended on Weber website!

deepee99 wrote:Bob, maybe I misstated my question. Could I put a Mullard tube and a Weber side-by-each on the same amp?

Bob Latino wrote:

deepee99 wrote:Bob, maybe I misstated my question. Could I put a Mullard tube and a Weber side-by-each on the same amp?

Hi David,

I don't know if that would work out well ? Each rectifier has different characteristics that may or may not work well together ? Personally, I don't thing that using two somewhat dissimilar rectifiers in the same amp is a good idea ..

Bob

tajanes wrote:So, sounds like putting a slot or two at the bottom and top to provide ventilation is a no brainer,  but how do you dismantle the Weber Copper Caps without destroying the unit?  Are there small tabs / screws along the outside bottom edge (beneath the blue Weber label) or do you just 'work' the bottom off from the copper cap?

thanks

tajanes wrote:note: I have a WZ34 in my st-120, no pbs yet,
interesting however the Weber web page now suggests using their WS1 for hi-fi use
http://www.tedweber.com/ws1

mazeeff wrote:

tajanes wrote:note: I have a WZ34 in my st-120, no pbs yet,
interesting however the Weber web page now suggests using their WS1 for hi-fi use
http://www.tedweber.com/ws1

I went ahead and ordered a Weber WS1, and put it in my newly acquired Dynakit/VTA ST-70. It works great, and really tightened up the bass. It also runs very cool, at 109f, due to the lack of sag resisters. I had already been running a double diode full wave rectification on my 1967 ST-70, with no ill effects for many years, via a SDS Labs Cap Board. The WS1 boosted my B+ considerably, but I was able to rebias without issue. I know that a lot of people are concerned with running SS rectification without sag or delay. For me, it seems to work fine!

Mike

mazeeff wrote:Good points. I do use a manual reset GFCI for all my HiFi gear. Back in the late 60's, I was lucky enough to own a Marshall JTM100 Super Lead amp. These amps were SS rectification, and I do not recall any B+ (560V) delay circuit, other than the normal Standby function. That Marshall was played everywhere, and took quite a beating. In all the years that I played that amp, I don't ever recall replacing the power tubes. That amp saw more power outages and glitches than my Dynaco would ever see. My 67 Dynaco with SS, has been running fine for many years, other than a little 60 cycle hum the power transformer. I may get a little less tube life, but I don't seem to notice it!

Mike

pedrocols wrote:Has anybody tried these delay boards on the m-125?

pedrocols wrote:Has anybody tried these delay boards on the m-125?

arledgsc wrote:
If B+ has increased closer to 550V I will wire up my unused ST120 rectifier heater winding as a bucker with the incoming line voltage to effectively reduce the AC coming in about 5V.  This should reflect to 15-20V less HV AC at the rectifier input.