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The Dynaco Tube Audio Forum

Dedicated to the restoration and preservation of all original Dynaco tube audio equipment - Customer support for Tubes4hifi VTA tube amp and preamp kits and all Dynakitparts.com products


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New2Tubez
Kramer
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Roy Mottram
msikk
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jwb474
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    Auto-Bias board on Roy's website?

    Roy Mottram
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    Post by Roy Mottram Tue May 01, 2018 12:01 pm

    jfine
    connect the filament voltage (6.3vac on AB board to V2 output tube pins 2 & 7, then power up amp (no tubes in amp needed).
    After 40 seconds AB red LED will go out, and bias voltage on test point will ramp up to either 0.40vdc (on ST70 boards) or to 0.58vdc (on M125 boards).
    Test point is round dot right next to C13.  Red meter lead to test point, black meter lead to chassis ground, or ground hole on AB board.


    Last edited by tubes4hifi on Tue May 01, 2018 12:37 pm; edited 1 time in total
    Roy Mottram
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    Post by Roy Mottram Tue May 01, 2018 12:05 pm

    OK, so I don't have an amp here, but here's a drawing that should make this a simple install in the ST70 or ST120 amps.
    Download the photo from here to see it full size.  http://www.tubes4hifi.com/AB-ST70install3.jpg
    It's color coded, so a B&W print won't help much!
    Connections to R29, 30, 31, 32 are to the opposite end of outputs on VTA board (the ends that used to connect to the bias pots !!)

    Auto-Bias board on Roy's website? - Page 2 AB-ST70install4
    pichacker
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    Post by pichacker Wed May 02, 2018 6:13 am

    How robust is the auto bias board to tube flashovers?

    If a tube goes short, or draws high current for any reason, then there is a possibility of a high voltage being presented to the cathode path. On a stock version this fuses the 10 ohm resistor. On the auto bias board this would of course make its way to the sensing circuit that would normally only be looking for 0.6V. With a defective tube we would have little control using the grid bias voltage.
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    mazeeff


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    Post by mazeeff Thu May 03, 2018 7:27 am

    pichacker wrote:How robust is the auto bias board to tube flashovers?

    If a tube goes short, or draws high current for any reason, then there is a possibility of a high voltage being presented to the cathode path. On a stock version this fuses the 10 ohm resistor. On the auto bias board this would of course make its way to the sensing circuit that would normally only be looking for 0.6V. With a defective tube we would have little control using the grid bias voltage.

    I share the same concern. Perhaps someone with the board can describe the part used to control the cathode current. That part would need to be able to withstand 500v on it, given a tube failure. A part number or schematic would be helpful in determining the max voltage of the part. I would also like to convince myself that the circuit prevents blowing the 10 ohm resistor, as Roy pointed out earlier. When these 10 ohm resistors blow, they generate an immense amount of heat. That heat may jeopardize the circuit board, if the 10 ohm resistors continue to act as fuses, in the event of tube failure.
    corndog71
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    Post by corndog71 Thu May 03, 2018 9:19 am

    You can always add fuses between the cathodes and their respective auto-bias connection.  But you can't just throw in any ordinary fuse.  You need a high breaking ceramic fuse like this https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=%20F4603-ND   This will work for each power tube of an ST70, ST120, and each paralleled pair of tubes of the M125.

    I know what some are thinking.  Why use a $1.50 fuse when you can just let a 0.10 cent resistor burn up?  Well, if you've ever smelled a resistor go up smoke then you know it's not a pleasant experience.  Then you have to unsolder it and resolder a new one.  It's a convenience to simply replace a fuse.  Granted there's not a lot of room in the classic dynaco chassis.  This is another reason why I prefer a custom layout.
    Bennyhaha812
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    Post by Bennyhaha812 Thu May 03, 2018 6:40 pm

    Pretty sure I read earlier that if a tube dies power is immediately clamped off preventing the blowing of the resistor by this bias board so no more blown resistors! I wish I could remember where I read this and link it......
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    Post by mazeeff Fri May 04, 2018 7:09 am

    The problem of what happens when the auto-bias circuit encounters a tube with a plate to cathode short can be easily tested by Roy and/or Pavel. With the power off, remove a output tube, and short the plate to cathode, with a large jumper. This would emulate a common problem associated with redplating, where the excess heat of redplating results in metal fatigue, and quite often a short. This type of failure would put 400-500 volts on the cathode, and would normally vaporize the 10 ohm resistor. With eye protection, and a fire suit, flip on the power and see what happens. If the silicon based current limiter and/or the 10 ohm resistor fails, we have a problem. If the circuit works as Roy described in post #79, and limits the current, then we are fine. The alternative, is for Roy or Pavel to disclose part numbers associated with the current limiting circuit. With that information, we could quickly determine if the circuit can withstand a 500v short. In the past 10 years, I have had three tubes fail with a internal short like this, and two times it took out the 10 ohm resistor. Based on reading the forum, a number of folks have blown a 10 ohm resistor, like myself. It is not a rare event. I have wondered, if Roy purposely designed the VTA with the 10 ohm resistor external, because it is easier to replace when it is soldered to a socket and ground. Without an answer to this, we will just have to wait until one of the early adopters encounters a tube failure resulting in a short!

    PS: Please do not take my posts as a criticism, in any way. I am a old retired EE, who was taught the value of being a "devil's advocate" early on. We used to hold VERY tough design reviews, where my EE peers were encouraged to find faults in my designs. Saved my Bacon more than once!
    pavlikkkk
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    Post by pavlikkkk Fri May 04, 2018 8:18 am

    mazeeff wrote:The problem of what happens when the auto-bias circuit encounters a tube with a plate to cathode short can be easily tested by Roy and/or Pavel. With the power off, remove a output tube, and short the plate to cathode, with a large jumper. This would emulate a common problem associated with redplating, where the excess heat of redplating results in metal fatigue, and quite often a short. This type of failure would put 400-500 volts on the cathode, and would normally vaporize the 10 ohm resistor. With eye protection, and a fire suit, flip on the power and see what happens. If the silicon based current limiter and/or the 10 ohm resistor fails, we have a problem. If the circuit works as Roy described in post #79, and limits the current, then we are fine. The alternative, is for Roy or Pavel to disclose part numbers associated with the current limiting circuit. With that information, we could quickly determine if the circuit can withstand a 500v short. In the past 10 years, I have had three tubes fail with a internal short like this, and two times it took out the 10 ohm resistor. Based on reading the forum, a number of folks have blown a 10 ohm resistor, like myself. It is not a rare event. I have wondered, if Roy purposely designed the VTA with the 10 ohm resistor external, because it is easier to replace when it is soldered to a socket and ground. Without an answer to this, we will just have to wait until one of the early adopters encounters a tube failure resulting in a short!

    PS: Please do not take my posts as a criticism, in any way. I am a old retired EE, who was taught the value of being a "devil's advocate" early on. We used to hold VERY tough design reviews, where my EE peers were encouraged to find faults in my designs. Saved my Bacon more than once!

    Experiences:
    from the beginning of the sale of auto bias modules, there were four cases of burned 10 Ohm resistors in a tube failure (internal short circuit).
    Always burned only a carbon cathode resistor 10 Ohm and nothing else not happened. I just changed the resistor and everything was OK.
    In one module, the IC (integrated circuit) in the stabilizer were destroyed. When a tube failure (650V B+) Burned arc on the module and destroyed IC. After washing PCB and replacing IC, the module was ok.
    Pavel
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    Post by pavlikkkk Fri May 04, 2018 11:10 am

    mazeeff wrote:Pavel. Thank you for a solid answer. Four 10 ohm failures, seems to justify our concerns. Back to Corndog71's idea of a fuse. If the fuse has a consistent 1.24 ohms, why not use this value as the bias resistance? You could easily mount PCB based fuse holders to make replacement easier. If I understand it, the value of 10 ohms was chosen to simply make the math easier! Would 1.24 ohms work just as well? Of course, these fuses would need to be 1.24 +/- 1% or so (same tolerance as the resistor). Pavel's experiences seem to run counter to Roy's post #79.

    you understand it correctly. The conversion is 10. When you add the fuse, it will be 11.24.
    For Icath 50 mA x 11.24 = 562 mV
    But beware ... The fuse is not a resistor. It does not have a constant resistance. But with the 10 Ohm resistor it is still a small error and it can be used..
    Pavel
    jfine
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    Post by jfine Fri May 04, 2018 10:13 pm

    Anyone got some detail pics of this installed in the M125 yet? Smile
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    Post by Bob Latino Fri May 04, 2018 10:50 pm

    jfine wrote:Anyone got some detail pics of this installed in the M125 yet? Smile

    See photo below of the Tubes4hifi AutoBias board installed into a VTA M-125 working great with all 4 blue lights indicating that the board has the proper control of the bias on each of the 4 output tubes. The front of the amp is on the right side of the photo.

    Bob


    Auto-Bias board on Roy's website? - Page 2 Blue_Lights_M_125_AB_screen_size


    Last edited by Bob Latino on Sat May 05, 2018 6:46 am; edited 1 time in total
    jfine
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    Post by jfine Fri May 04, 2018 11:41 pm

    Great shot! it'd be nice to see more of an overview top view of the wiring, maybe under the board as well, if possible.
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    Post by mazeeff Sat May 05, 2018 5:29 am

    First of all, let me state that I have the utmost respect for Bob, Roy & Pavel. Your products have brought a great amount of joy to my life. I have three VTA amps, and my St120 runs 12 hours a day every day in my shop. Recently, my sister stopped over to listen to the ST120 and my Klipsch Cornwalls. She wants a ST120 real bad, but has no technical skills, and refuses to consider even biasing a amp. I live too far away to make repairs, so she needs a amp that is easy to maintain. Pavel's auto-bias board opened the door for her to own one of these. I only offer the following suggestions, to make it a little easier for someone like my sister to enjoy these amps.

    1. Make the 10 ohm resistors as easy to replace as possible. Perhaps using a multi-screw terminal strip or similar. No soldering/unsoldering would be great for those like my sister! If those resistors could be up top, then they could be easily replaced without too much skill, and no need to flip and open the amp.

    2. Move the auto-bias led's to the top, so that they can be easily seen. We are going to want to show off those multi-color led's to our friends, and they provide feedback that everything is ok.

    3. Consider combining the VTA and Auto-Bias boards into one big board. This eliminates wiring, and cleans things up a bit. It would also provide a easy way to get the led's on top, and fix the 10 ohm mounting.

    4. Move the bias adjuster to the top as well! This will aid in more easily changing the bias target for KT88's (50ma) and KT120's (55-60ma) in a ST120. Helps the tube swappers!

    Personally, I am fine with adjusting my own bias, and soldering/unsoldering 10 ohm resistors. If the product is made easier (like with Pavel's auto-bias), then it opens up the market for non technical folks like my sister. I would bet that 99% of VTA owners are male with at least some level of technical and/or mechanical skills. Might be nice to get some females involved, and get them on the forum! Of course, Skizoid and deepee99 would have to behave themselves, if my sister joined the forum!

    Roy has surprised us before, in how quickly he can design and produce new boards!!!!!

    Also, my sister will be curious as to whether Bob will offer the auto-bias option in a fully assembled amp?
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    Post by jwb474 Sun May 06, 2018 2:18 am

    Here are a couple of pictures of the final form for the Auto-Bias installation on my old ST70. I set the current to 50ma.

    I had mentioned before that with the delay relay and solid state rectification, the caps will charge to the peak of the secondary ac. Another quirk I noticed that the
    Auto-Bias soft-start does not completely reset with a quick power interruption. This coupled with 17 second delay of the relay, no voltage is present on the quad cap, this
    causes the Auto-Bias to "think" the tube bias is to low and for 17 seconds the charge on the 22uf caps increases. Now when the relay closes there was about 150ma of tube current
    until the Auto-Bias corrects it.

    All in all I am happy with the way it works. I do have schematics and only if Roy says it is OK I will share them, otherwise if anyone hear has a question on the operation I will try to answer
    them.

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    Post by mazeeff Sun May 06, 2018 4:29 am

    jwb474; From your pictures, it looks like you have the auto-bias board installed topside, instead of inside the case. Is that correct? I see the the blue led's through the cage!

    Regarding the "quick power interruption issue". How long does it take for the auto-bias to reduce the 150ma to 50ma? I use one of these to prevent the issue. If it loses power, it remains off, when power returns. Glad you tested that! I always cringe a bit, when short cycling power like that!

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q9EFUK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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    Post by mazeeff Sun May 06, 2018 5:32 am

    150ma on a el34 would far exceed its power specification. As many times as Bob as warned us about keeping the bias current low to improve reliability, 150ma would make him twitch! Does the problem go away, if you remove the TDR board? Is 150ma the max current that the auto-bias circuit can sink? Why 150ma?
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    Post by jwb474 Sun May 06, 2018 6:55 am

    mazeeff wrote:150ma on a el34 would far exceed its power specification. As many times as Bob as warned us about keeping the bias current low to improve reliability, 150ma would make him twitch! Does the problem go away, if you remove the TDR board? Is 150ma the max current that the auto-bias circuit can sink? Why 150ma?

    As I stated above, using a tube rectifier basically eliminates the problem since the HV is immediately restored. The Auto-Bias then does it's thing. I noticed hardly any increase is bias current when restored from a dropout using a tube rectifier, but you don't get the improvements that solid state rectifier gives you. Maybe I should test using solid state rectification without delay. I do like having a "St80" which improved base transient response.

    Look, this is a great hobby playing with all the various trade offs in design circuits. For me not having to fool with constant bias re-adjustments is well worth some of the compromises. I have my on bias regulators designs since the days of Audio Amateur and Glass Audio. I have never lost a tube due to the design issues of a Auto-Bias circuit.

    I look forward with playing which the MK3.
    jfine
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    Post by jfine Sun May 06, 2018 11:27 am

    Questions,

    1) Is this autobias system basically the same as what Primaluna does? (What they call "adaptive")

    http://audiofast.pl/main.asp?idm=37&ids=155&wersja=1

    Heck they even claim distortion is reduced by 40% to 50%!


    2) I have read that a cathode bias system (using a large resistor) can drop power by up to 10%. "The down side of cathode bias is that at full power the cathode voltage rises, reducing the current in the tube, reducing power and increasing distortion."

    Looking at this AB board here for the M125, it looks as though there are resistors, and electrolytics, similar to what a cathode bias system contains. Isn't there some power loss, even if minimal?

    3) The signal now goes thru the existing driver board coupling caps, but now it will also pass thru the 2 PIO's on the AB board? This must affect sonics, i.e., both of these positions are now candidates for cap rolling?
    jfine
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    Post by jfine Sun May 06, 2018 1:00 pm

    Also an interesting read about VAC amps:

    http://www.vac-amps.com/press/factsheets/iQsystem.pdf
    Roy Mottram
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    Post by Roy Mottram Sun May 06, 2018 2:11 pm

    J FIne,
    almost all hi-end modern tube amplifiers are now using auto-bias. Since we don't have the schematics for either the Pavel design we (Tubes4HiFi) are using, and we don't have the schematics for the PrimaLuna amps,
    there's no way to compare for sure. This version could certainly be called "adaptive", because if you substitute one tube for another then it's still going to automatically adjust bias to the preset value.
    This is still a "fixed bias" method, which is the best for highest power and lowest distortion. It is NOT cathode bias.
    We are still using the 10 ohm resistor to measure and compare bias, same as before. A "cathode bias" method would use an appropriate resistor for the tube type (say maybe 200 ohm 10 watts)
    for an EL34, along with a large 220-1000uF capacitor in parallel with it. An amp like that has lower power and higher distortion.
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    Post by pavlikkkk Sun May 06, 2018 4:56 pm

    tubes4hifi wrote:J FIne,
    almost all hi-end modern tube amplifiers are now using auto-bias.  Since we don't have the schematics for either the Pavel design we (Tubes4HiFi) are using, and we don't have the schematics for the PrimaLuna amps,
    there's no way to compare for sure.   This version could certainly be called "adaptive", because if you substitute one tube for another then it's still going to automatically adjust bias to the preset value.
    This is still a "fixed bias" method, which is the best for highest power and lowest distortion.  It is NOT cathode bias.
    We are still using the 10 ohm resistor to measure and compare bias, same as before.   A "cathode bias" method would use an appropriate resistor for the tube type (say maybe 200 ohm 10 watts)
    for an EL34, along with a large 220-1000uF capacitor in parallel with it.  An amp like that has lower power and higher distortion.

    the principle of connecting the AB-2, AB-4 modules is similar to the Primaluna connection.
    The AB-Q and AB-D modules use a different control principle, which is independent of the end-tube excitation.
    Pavel
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    Post by jfine Mon May 07, 2018 2:16 am

    Roy/Pavel,

    What happens with the M125 when a tube begins to fail, I understand the other 3 tubes would still run with correct bias, but is there some audible difference, like maybe less volume, etc., that would alert you that the tube failed? It would seem you could run with 3 tubes and maybe not notice?
    pavlikkkk
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    Post by pavlikkkk Mon May 07, 2018 2:56 am

    jfine wrote:Roy/Pavel,

    What happens with the M125 when a tube begins to fail, I understand the other 3 tubes would still run with correct bias,  but is there some audible difference, like maybe less volume, etc., that would alert you that the tube failed? It would seem you could run with 3 tubes and maybe not notice?
    you will notice, of course... distortion will be significant, it can be heard Mad
    Pavel
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    Post by mazeeff Mon May 07, 2018 4:15 am

    I recall a thread on another forum, where folks were talking about the benefits of maintaining consistent bias in a push-pull tube amp. They referred to a term called "Crossover distortion". This distortion was minimized by maintaining the same exact bias on each of the two tubes. Can someone explain how this level of distortion relates to overall THD? I think I also read that if the bias was equalized, that the amp would run in Class A mode for a greater part of the push-pull cycle. I have never quite understood this, but it would appear that the auto-bias board benefits both distortion, and class AB performance. Are these assumptions correct? Is the benefit audible??? For you Math Majors out there, if my bias difference were to be 10% in a push-pull amp, what would the distortion % be? A couple of days ago, I decided to put 4 meters on the bias points in my ST120 to watch the bias drift during warmup. It was surprising the amount of voltage drift that I saw during the 1st hour of warmup (without auto-bias). I saw 1 of my KT120's start at 60ma and work its way down to 55ma, and another that started at 50ma, and worked its way up to 55ma. The auto-bias board would eliminate this difference, without the need to warm up the amp. At this point, I don't see much downside to using auto-bias. The benefits appear to be significant!
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    Post by Kramer Mon May 07, 2018 12:04 pm

    I just got the bias board installed in my st120 amp. I normally am very cautious of my bias levels after losing a tube shortly after assembling the kit. I would check pretty much every time I started the amp.

    After installing and doing a listening test I would say there is definitely a noted difference in the sound. Exactly what I would expect to hear from all tubes consistently at optimal bias levels. I am very happy with the results of installing this board and highly recommend it to anyone considering it. Thanks everyone involved for a great addon to our already amazing amps.


    Last edited by Kramer on Mon May 07, 2018 6:09 pm; edited 1 time in total

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