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The Dynaco Tube Audio Forum

Dedicated to the restoration and preservation of all original Dynaco tube audio equipment - Customer support for Tubes4hifi VTA tube amp and preamp kits and all Dynakitparts.com products


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New2Tubez
Kramer
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Roy Mottram
msikk
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24 posters

    Auto-Bias board on Roy's website?

    avatar
    New2Tubez


    Posts : 184
    Join date : 2018-03-20
    Location : NY

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    Post by New2Tubez Fri Jan 11, 2019 5:47 pm

    I got but haven't installed the AB or modded the VTA board but got these for the purpose you mention:

    https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lumex/SSL-LX3044UEGC?qs=%2fha2pyFadui7ivFq1vSLB8k3ryryuuMNMdYGeVxffnZ209HnnWzxFQ%3d%3d

    Pavel said they would be fine. I didn't want anything bright and these only address relocating the 4 blue LEDs and not the red one. I haven't done the board yet but most likely will before Roy has new ones. The newly posted proper instructions will be very helpful!  Thanks Pavel and Roy for these.
    avatar
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    Post by Guest Fri Jan 11, 2019 6:07 pm

    Just curious, are they available in blue over green? My thinking was the blue compliments the soft glow of red from the tubes, but that may be taking things a bit too far on my part, don't know.
    avatar
    New2Tubez


    Posts : 184
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    Post by New2Tubez Fri Jan 11, 2019 6:13 pm

    jsl1234 wrote:Just curious, are they available in blue over green? My thinking was the blue compliments the soft glow of red from the tubes, but that may be taking things a bit too far on my part, don't know.

    I'm not sure but they had a few colors. I just wanted mine to blend in so I wouldn't see LEDs on the board. No you're not taking it too far. I spent a few hours looking.
    Hopefully your tubes are glowing orange, BTW :)

    If you look way back on this thread, there might be mention of power requirements, etc but IIRC, Pavel said almost anything would work. Probably best to find the color you like and run the rest by him.
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    Post by Guest Fri Jan 11, 2019 6:16 pm

    " ....your tubes are glowing orange, BTW"...indeed they are right now, and have been most of the day Smile

    Great amp with a great supportive community.

    Thanks
    pavlikkkk
    pavlikkkk


    Posts : 69
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    Post by pavlikkkk Fri Jan 11, 2019 7:03 pm

    New2Tubez wrote:I got but haven't installed the AB or modded the VTA board but got these for the purpose you mention:

    https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lumex/SSL-LX3044UEGC?qs=%2fha2pyFadui7ivFq1vSLB8k3ryryuuMNMdYGeVxffnZ209HnnWzxFQ%3d%3d

    Pavel said they would be fine. I didn't want anything bright and these only address relocating the 4 blue LEDs and not the red one. I haven't done the board yet but most likely will before Roy has new ones. The newly posted proper instructions will be very helpful!  Thanks Pavel and Roy for these.

    you can use these LEDs. Will not they shine too much (1100mcd)?
    Pavel
    avatar
    New2Tubez


    Posts : 184
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    Location : NY

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    Post by New2Tubez Sat Jan 12, 2019 12:31 am

    pavlikkkk wrote:
    New2Tubez wrote:I got but haven't installed the AB or modded the VTA board but got these for the purpose you mention:

    https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lumex/SSL-LX3044UEGC?qs=%2fha2pyFadui7ivFq1vSLB8k3ryryuuMNMdYGeVxffnZ209HnnWzxFQ%3d%3d

    Pavel said they would be fine. I didn't want anything bright and these only address relocating the 4 blue LEDs and not the red one. I haven't done the board yet but most likely will before Roy has new ones. The newly posted proper instructions will be very helpful!  Thanks Pavel and Roy for these.

    you can use these LEDs. Will not they shine too much (1100mcd)?
    Pavel

    I'll have another look. I spent a long time searching for these, thought they were a good choice and ordered them. I looked through all of our PM's but couldn't find a reference to the ones I got. Maybe those were deleted..?
    I definitely don't want them to be bright. I just barely want to know they're on. Is there an mcd range to look for that would do this?

    Thanks
    pavlikkkk
    pavlikkkk


    Posts : 69
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    Post by pavlikkkk Sat Jan 12, 2019 6:47 am

    New2Tubez wrote:
    pavlikkkk wrote:
    New2Tubez wrote:I got but haven't installed the AB or modded the VTA board but got these for the purpose you mention:

    https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lumex/SSL-LX3044UEGC?qs=%2fha2pyFadui7ivFq1vSLB8k3ryryuuMNMdYGeVxffnZ209HnnWzxFQ%3d%3d

    Pavel said they would be fine. I didn't want anything bright and these only address relocating the 4 blue LEDs and not the red one. I haven't done the board yet but most likely will before Roy has new ones. The newly posted proper instructions will be very helpful!  Thanks Pavel and Roy for these.

    you can use these LEDs. Will not they shine too much (1100mcd)?
    Pavel

    I'll have another look. I spent a long time searching for these, thought they were a good choice and ordered them. I looked through all of our PM's but couldn't find a reference to the ones I got. Maybe those were deleted..?
    I definitely don't want them to be bright. I just barely want to know they're on. Is there an mcd range to look for that would do this?

    Thanks
    for example:
    https://www.tme.eu/en/details/l-934mbdk/tht-leds-3mm/kingbright-electronic/
    Kramer
    Kramer


    Posts : 50
    Join date : 2018-02-11
    Age : 37
    Location : Chicago

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    Post by Kramer Sat Jan 12, 2019 1:37 pm

    After reading the new installation instructions provided by Pavel, thank you very much for taking the time to put that together, I see that the removal of R37 and R38 is no longer listed. Is this step not necessary to properly install and use the AB-Q board?
    avatar
    Guest
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    Post by Guest Sat Jan 12, 2019 2:05 pm

    Kramer wrote:After reading the new installation instructions provided by Pavel, thank you very much for taking the time to put that together, I see that the removal of R37 and R38 is no longer listed. Is this step not necessary to properly install and use the AB-Q board?

    by removing the original bias trimmers, R37 & R38 are effectively taken out of the circuit, so no longer have a function and can be left on the pcb, that is how I see it. This can perhaps be confirmed by Roy.
    Kramer
    Kramer


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    Post by Kramer Sat Jan 12, 2019 3:17 pm

    erhard-audio wrote:
    Kramer wrote:After reading the new installation instructions provided by Pavel, thank you very much for taking the time to put that together, I see that the removal of R37 and R38 is no longer listed. Is this step not necessary to properly install and use the AB-Q board?

    by removing the original bias trimmers, R37 & R38 are effectively taken out of the circuit, so no longer have a function and can be left on the pcb, that is how I see it. This can perhaps be confirmed by Roy.

    That makes perfect sense, thank you for the clarification.
    avatar
    New2Tubez


    Posts : 184
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    Location : NY

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    Post by New2Tubez Sat Jan 12, 2019 4:08 pm

    pavlikkkk wrote:
    New2Tubez wrote:
    pavlikkkk wrote:
    New2Tubez wrote:I got but haven't installed the AB or modded the VTA board but got these for the purpose you mention:

    https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Lumex/SSL-LX3044UEGC?qs=%2fha2pyFadui7ivFq1vSLB8k3ryryuuMNMdYGeVxffnZ209HnnWzxFQ%3d%3d

    Pavel said they would be fine. I didn't want anything bright and these only address relocating the 4 blue LEDs and not the red one. I haven't done the board yet but most likely will before Roy has new ones. The newly posted proper instructions will be very helpful!  Thanks Pavel and Roy for these.

    you can use these LEDs. Will not they shine too much (1100mcd)?
    Pavel

    I'll have another look. I spent a long time searching for these, thought they were a good choice and ordered them. I looked through all of our PM's but couldn't find a reference to the ones I got. Maybe those were deleted..?
    I definitely don't want them to be bright. I just barely want to know they're on. Is there an mcd range to look for that would do this?

    Thanks
    for example:
    https://www.tme.eu/en/details/l-934mbdk/tht-leds-3mm/kingbright-electronic/

    Thank you Pavel,
    Looks like I was way off w/ 1100mcd. Replacements ordered in 50mcd. Stay tuned...
    Roy Mottram
    Roy Mottram
    Admin


    Posts : 1839
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    Auto-Bias board on Roy's website? - Page 5 Empty Re: Auto-Bias board on Roy's website?

    Post by Roy Mottram Sun Jan 20, 2019 2:31 pm

    yeah, wow, those LEDs would have been blindingly bright, and they also cost 5x as much as anything you'd need.
    Sorting thru Mouser offerings by price and then by brightness, I think I'll order some of these
    HLMP-KB45-A0000 30mcd and ten for $6.40. I'm used to buying red and green LEDs for under a dime each.
    avatar
    New2Tubez


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    Post by New2Tubez Mon Jan 21, 2019 4:37 pm

    tubes4hifi wrote:yeah, wow, those LEDs would have been blindingly bright, and they also cost 5x as much as anything you'd need.
    Sorting thru Mouser offerings by price and then by brightness, I think I'll order some of these
    HLMP-KB45-A0000   30mcd and ten for $6.40.   I'm used to buying red and green LEDs for under a dime each.

    Do you think the 50 mcd's I got will be too bright? I don't want them to outshine the tubes. It's not the LED price but shipping is usually more than the small amount of parts I end up ordering. Don't know if I want to do this order a third time...

    Please post findings or a good photo or both.
    Thanks
    Roy Mottram
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    Post by Roy Mottram Mon Jan 21, 2019 7:19 pm

    your 50mcd should be OK, if too bright put some nail polish or something on them to dim them a little
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    ranges


    Posts : 8
    Join date : 2010-11-06

    Auto-Bias board on Roy's website? - Page 5 Empty M125 link

    Post by ranges Sat Feb 09, 2019 2:37 am

    pavlikkkk wrote:

    Here are the new detailed AB-Q assembly instructions ST70-ST120 and AB-Q MK125:
    AB-Q M125




    AB-Q ST70-ST120



    Hello
    Is the link for the M125 broke
    I can not seem to open it
    Thanks
    pavlikkkk
    pavlikkkk


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    Post by pavlikkkk Sat Feb 09, 2019 3:45 am

    ranges wrote:
    pavlikkkk wrote:

    Here are the new detailed AB-Q assembly instructions ST70-ST120 and AB-Q MK125:
    AB-Q M125




    AB-Q ST70-ST120




    Hello
    Is the link for the M125 broke
    I can not seem to open it
    Thanks
    I'm sorry. It's alright
    Pavel
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    ranges


    Posts : 8
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    Post by ranges Sat Feb 09, 2019 6:19 am

    pavlikkkk wrote:
    ranges wrote:
    pavlikkkk wrote:

    Here are the new detailed AB-Q assembly instructions ST70-ST120 and AB-Q MK125:
    AB-Q M125





    AB-Q ST70-ST120





    Hello
    Is the link for the M125 broke
    I can not seem to open it
    Thanks

    Thanks

    I'm sorry. It's alright
    Pavel
    markeby
    markeby


    Posts : 33
    Join date : 2019-02-13
    Age : 66
    Location : Near Austin, Texas

    Auto-Bias board on Roy's website? - Page 5 Empty AB-Q instructions?

    Post by markeby Wed Feb 13, 2019 11:04 pm

    I am no stranger to tube amps but, these instructions appear to have some information that I cannot resolve (or, I am blind in one eye and can't see out the other jocolor).  What is V1 OUT, V2 OUT,
    V3 OUT, V4 OUT on the AB-Q module and why connect a non-existent pad to a unconnected pin?

    I love you I LOVE MY ST120 I love you
    It goes well with my  PH16 & SP-9!
    markeby
    markeby


    Posts : 33
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    Post by markeby Wed Feb 13, 2019 11:14 pm

    pavlikkkk wrote:
    jsl1234 wrote:Hi, does anyone have a photo/example showing they moved the bias lights on the AB board to show through the driver board cover?

    I’m thinking the lights would be neat if inserted in the hole that used to provide access to the bias adjustment pots?

    Otherwise how do you know if the lights are on/working without unbuttoning the the amp?

    Thanks
    is that it?
    Auto-Bias board on Roy's website? - Page 5 Led-st10

    The question I have is: Does the LED have any other functional purpose in the circuit?  I have a lot laying around and I am considering just putting a resister in series to set the brightness lower.
    Does anyone have the schematic?
    pichacker
    pichacker


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    Post by pichacker Thu Feb 14, 2019 5:09 am

    Mark,

    If you look a few messages back you can see that I sketched the circuit out. The position of the LED in the circuit does appear to set the base bias on the upper transistor of the grid drive output stage. It's a sort of constant current generator so in thoery the more voltage dropped across the LED the more current in the circuit.

    Personally the circuit works so well i'd leave it alone. All the LEDs tell you is that the circuit is attempting to control the bias current in the tube. If your LED goes OC then the output pair of transistors could be overrun and burn up.

    See post 29 of this thread https://dynacotubeaudio.forumotion.com/t3925p25-need-help-with-auto-bias-board-malfunction
    Roy Mottram
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    Post by Roy Mottram Thu Feb 14, 2019 1:42 pm

    the lastest instructions from Pavel still seem to be wrong, V1 OUT is actually V1 GRD (grid), same for V2 OUT, V3 OUT, V4 OUT.
    Also, the steps 11-14 are wrong!!   The output tube grids actually connect to the VTA driver board, same as before, not directly to the AB board!
    Should be  
    11. Re-connect the Rg1 wire from the VTA driver board  to pin 6 in the V1 socket
    12. Re-connect the Rg2 wire from the VTA driver board to pin 6 in the V2 socket
    13. Re-connect the Rg3 wire from the VTA driver board  to pin 6 in the V3 socket
    14. Re-connect the Rg4 wire from the VTA driver board  to pin 6 in the V4 socket

    updated/corrected instructions for the ST70-ST120 auto-bias are here on my website
    www.tubes4hifi.com/ST70-AB.pdf

    the instructions for the M125 were correct unless someone else can find an error that I don't see
    pavlikkkk
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    Post by pavlikkkk Fri Feb 15, 2019 4:28 am

    tubes4hifi wrote:the lastest instructions from Pavel still seem to be wrong, V1 OUT is actually V1 GRD (grid), same for V2 OUT, V3 OUT, V4 OUT.
    Also, the steps 11-14 are wrong!!   The output tube grids actually connect to the VTA driver board, same as before, not directly to the AB board!
    Should be  
    11. Re-connect the Rg1 wire from the VTA driver board  to pin 6 in the V1 socket
    12. Re-connect the Rg2 wire from the VTA driver board to pin 6 in the V2 socket
    13. Re-connect the Rg3 wire from the VTA driver board  to pin 6 in the V3 socket
    14. Re-connect the Rg4 wire from the VTA driver board  to pin 6 in the V4 socket

    updated/corrected instructions for the ST70-ST120 auto-bias are here on my website
    www.tubes4hifi.com/ST70-AB.pdf

    the instructions for the M125 were correct unless someone else can find an error that I don't see

    It is so. Thanks for the repair, Roy.
    Also in the manual were badly numbered power tube positions. Boards AB are now marked correctly.

    Auto-Bias board on Roy's website? - Page 5 Ab_rev10

    The corrected manual is already connected and the schema is correct.
    Correction on www.audioamp.eu
    manual ST70-AB.pdf
    Pavel
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    Post by Guest Sun Mar 10, 2019 8:49 am

    I'm not sure I am posting images correctly but wanted to share how the modified AB board turned out. Several posts back I was asking if the lights could be repositioned on the driver board cover. Through the good work of Ben (VTA Tech on east coast) I was able to get exactly what I wanted (including custom woodwork encasement of my unit as well).

    Jay


    Auto-Bias board on Roy's website? - Page 5 2019-010Auto-Bias board on Roy's website? - Page 5 2019-012
    slate1
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    Post by slate1 Tue Apr 02, 2019 9:04 pm

    tubes4hifi wrote: it's a ONE TIME ADJUSTMENT !!   Set it and forget it for the next 20 years!!
    jfine  - yes, still possible to monitor if you want, but now the 10 ohm cathode resistors are on the auto-bias board instead of on the output tube sockets.
               But really, no need to monitor, since they will ALWAYS be EXACTLY correct, except during warm-up, when they ramp up the current slowly,
               protecting those tubes!

    My amp is en route back to me with the auto-bias board installed. Curious as to what this implies re: checking bias from the front holes?  The noted move of the 10 ohm resistor confuses me as to if it’s possible. I’m just thinking, for example, if the rectifier were changed. Would I be able to double check the bias without popping the case. Or - is that irrelevant?

    Noted : I’m an idiot on this stuff!  Ha ha.
    pichacker
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    Post by pichacker Wed Apr 03, 2019 3:29 am

    Slate....

    You're not an idiot, it's a learning process. With the auto bias board in and functioning then it wil take care of the bias on the output tubes for you. Any changes in line voltage or tube ageing will be automatically compensated for.

    The bias current measurement is performed by measuring the voltage across the cathode resistor on the output tube. On the VTA products this is 10 ohms and was initially wired local to the tube socket. With the fitting of the auto bias board this resistor is removed and replaced by one that is mounted on the auto bias board. Same function different place.

    It is still possible to measure the voltage across each of these resistors on the auto bias board but in reality if things are working to plan the voltages will not vary much and will all be very similar. No adjustment needed.

    Depending upon who/how the board was fitted you may still have the connections to the front sockets so you can monitor the voltage if you wish.

    Hope this helps

    Steve

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